Zeppelins are back ... see for yourself
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THE eastern side of Switzerland is separated from Germany by the Lake Constance.
I took the train across Switzerland (easy with the railcards available from Swiss Travel System www.swisstravelsystem.ch) to Romanshorn where the car ferry waits next to the railway station. It then sets off on a 41-minute journey across the lake to Friedrichshafen.
Customs formalities are minimal, and the harbour station is nearby to catch the connecting little train to shuttle to the main station. Integrated transport is wonderful. Although Friedrichshafen has an airport (with a railway station attached, of course) and main line railway connections, arriving by sea – well, lake – is the best way to see it.
It is a very tourist friendly place, with a mild climate, great lakeside views, gardens and promenades, a conference centre, many good hotels, but to my mind it has one plus point that other places do not have – a fascinating industrial heritage.
Count Zeppelin (1838 to 1917) was born across the lake at Konstanz, but they wouldn’t give him the room or backing to develop his famous airships, so he moved to Friedrichshafen. He started building airships in 1874, and the first one took to the skies in 1900. The first one crossed the Atlantic in 1928. This was all ground-breaking development. Aluminium alloy lightweight but strong frames had to be invented, which developed into aircraft frames. Small but powerful engines had to be developed. The spin-off was immense.
Many well known names of today started in Freidrichshafen. ZF (Zeppelin Fabrik) gearboxes and brakes systems are in most cars and trucks today, Maybach developed airship and then aeroplane engines, and their diesel hydraulic engines are well known. Claude Dornier worked there, developing many of the great aeroplanes. MTU engines came from here, too, and today have equipped our high-speed trains in the UK.
All this concentration of high-tech engineering led to the town being just about destroyed in 1944. The population dropped from 30,000 to 10,000. It has taken a time to rebuild, and today Zeppelins are being built again. Currently the Zeppelin NT, with a 12-seat cabin, has been giving tourist rides around the lake since 1997. In 2011 Goodyear ordered 3 NTs, and plans are being worked up for a 45-seater airship (see www.zeppelinflug.de).
Down by the lakeside the huge old harbour station building is now the Zeppelin Museum. This is fascinating and well worth a visit. There is also the Claude Dornier Museum at the airport, with 12 aeroplanes on display (www.dorniermuseum.de).
Of course, there are many other attractions for people who do not have too great an interest in engineering or aeroplanes. The cultural side of life is covered by concerts, plays and ballet. There are also trade fairs and exhibitions. Twice a week there is a street market, which is used a lot by the locals, not just tourist things, but fruit, vegetables and so on.
Look out for the Schlosskircke (palace church) with its twin towers that have been a landmark for boats on the lake since it was completed in 1701. It suffered in the war and was rebuilt between 1947 and 1951. Other attractions are a school museum, a fire brigade museum, an art gallery and even a 22 metre high viewing platform tower constructed at the entrance to the harbour. From here the car ferry to Romanshorn (every hour) also sees a modern catamaran shuttle to and from Konstanz, and in the season a stately paddle steamer. There are other boat services as well, including boats for hire.
The town itself, with so little left after the war, has been reconstructed in a very pleasant, airy way. There is plenty of space, clean and tidy streets, and many shops, including the big brands and supermarkets. Things were not expensive at all, and I came back with far too many things that I just couldn’t resist (all bargains). The impressive main railway station has a very good value for money restaurant, with remarkable stained glass windows showing features of the cities that you can reach by train. The town also boasts good walking trails, and promotes bicycle holidays – a bike card gives you various discounts. There are many good cycling routes around the lake. There are also camping facilities, and for the energetic canoes, boats, fishing and wellness centres.
A “Geschichtspfad” or history trail leads you to all the historic sites and monuments, including the old wells and fountains. This gives you an idea of how popular the town has always been, and its timeless popularity.
I was so entranced by Friedrichshafen that I missed my intended car ferry back across the lake, but they run every hour and I caught the next one. It is a very pleasant place to visit, and to use as a base to explore the surrounding area which has many, many interesting places. This was the second time that I had been there, and I am determined to go back again and stay for a few days.
To make getting around as easy as possible, use the Friedrichshafen Gastpass, the Bodensee card www.bodensee.eu (the Germans call the lake the Bodensee, and the local railway company has this as its name too) and the Bodo Transport card for buses as well (ww.bodo.de).
They certainly cater well for tourists – and, of course, you can go for a Zeppelin flight, a unique experience for any holiday.
To get to Friedrichshafen via Switzerland may sound odd, but it is only a maximum of two hours by train and ferry from Zurich airport. Friedrichshafen airport has connections to the main German hub airports of Frankfurt, Koln
The population today is 59,000 people, who have one of the highest qualities of life in Germany. It is a jewel on the lake, for more information go to www.friedrichshafen.info This has an English version, and English was spoken everywhere I went there. The tourist office is beside the main railway station and has a wealth of information and offers, and a helpful and English speaking staff.
A great place to go!
