Strasbourg earns its place as a centre of Europe
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It is known as one of the two homes of the European Parliament, but travel writer Ron Smith finds Strasbourg in France steeped in fascinating history, with must-see sights and offering a tempting taste for quality food and drink .....
Strasbourg is a fascinating place. It is the capital of the Alsace region of France, which has been passed between Germany and France many times, but has been French again since 1944. However, most of the names of the towns and villages are very German.
The city sits to the west bank of the mighty river Rhine, with the German town of Kehl on the other side. It has a strategic position in Europe, which is why there are so many European institutions there.
Around the year 12BC, the Romans had a fort here, at the junction of two famous roads, and that was the start of the city. It is dominated by the breathtaking Cathedral, which in 2015 will be celebrating 1,000 years since construction started. The present Cathedral is not the original, of course, but there are still some remains from the beginnings and the current building sits in the same footprint.
In 1262 the city, after a battle, declared itself free, and with its walls and forts and cannon was left alone, so it could then mint coins, hold fairs and so on. It was a free Imperial City of the Holy Roman Empire. Wars have never been far away, though, and around 1690 the famous French engineer Vauban built more fortifications, which are still there today.
The main part of the city, the "Grande Ile" (big island), is surrounded by the river Ill and the Faux Rempart canal. With 21 bridges and footbridges, this has been a UNESCO recognised World Heritage Site since 1988, all 90 hectares, with 135 listed buildings. There are still many remains of the fortifications. Vauban built a huge dam, which looks like a bridge of many arches with buildings all along the top, with a walk way on the roof that you can use today. This allowed them to flood some parts of the city to stop invaders. Islands are shaped like ships of war with gun ports along the walls, and two towers.
The Franco–Prussian war of 1870/71 caused a lot of damage. It was then that Roger De Lisle composed the ‘Marseillaise’, the national anthem of France, in one night. A result of this war was that Strasbourg was German again until 1918. It influenced a lot of the architecture and the development of the railway lines. The Second World War brought more damage and destruction but many buildings were rebuilt in the same style as the original, or where this was not possible, new buildings, squares and streets opened up some of the old closely built urban areas.
Among some lovely squares, Place Kleber (with a statue of this General) has fountains in rectangular ponds and very popular in hot weather. Place Gutenberg has a large statue of Jean Gutenberg, who invented the movable type that made mechanical printing possible. Although the first Bible was printed mechanically at Mainz around 1440, Strasbourg became the centre of printing in the second half of the 15th century.
Behind his statue is the solid, large Chamber of Commerce building, with its typically high roof, and small windows,, to hold grain, flour and food as the cellars were always damp due to the high water table. A very attractive area of old houses with timber beams is Petite France. When soldiers returned home with a particular disease, known as ‘The little French illness’, they were taken here for treatment. The old houses on the water side were for millers (who needed the water wheel power) and tanners, who needed lots of water to work the hides. They would create a smell, and pollute the water, so they were always at the downstream edge of the city. There is still an operating swing bridge here, which has to turn when the tourist boats come along.
This is a very good way to see the city; there are open boats, closed boats, and even one with settees and armchairs and a bar. They operate daily, more frequently in summer, and have commentaries in many languages via ear sets. Through two sets of locks, they head up the river to the European Quarter. At a T junction of waterways are the Palais de l’Europe, dating from 1975, the Human Rights Building, from 1995, and the European Parliament building, from 1999, with the administration building across the river with its own footbridge.
These are massive buildings of glass and steel, housing thousands of people. The European Parliament has 785 members elected every five years, from the 27 countries of the EU. There is also the European Youth Centre, European Science Foundation, International Faculty of Comparative Law, and even the European Central Commission for Navigation on the Rhine – founded in 1815 it is the oldest international organisation in the world. As you can imagine, this all creates a huge employment market, and gives Strasbourg a buzz, as do the 40,000 students at the University.
Six tramway lines criss-cross the city and there is also a "tram train" for tourists that runs through the streets. The tourist office is excellent, open 365 days a year from 09.00 to 19.00. They can advise on everything and help with walking tours, guided (recommended, as you will then not miss anything) or self guided ones with an audio guide, on any of the six marked trails, two of which are wheelchair accessible.
The Cathedral is the main "must see" site. It is huge. Inside is an astronomical clock, the first one started in 1352 and the current one 1547. It is an advanced mechanical computer, working out lunar cycles (including showing you the shape of the moon right now, e.g. full moon, or crescent) time, days, even Easter. At half past 12 (noon in old time) crowds assemble to watch the moving figures, cock crows, angels ringing bells.
The stained glass windows date back to the 12th century, the organ and pulpit are superb, and if you are feeling fit you can climb up 329 steps to have great views out over the rooftops. There are all sorts of things to see and do in Strasbourg all the year round, concerts, plays, films, sound and light shows on the water, floodlighting of the Cathedral, and eating and drinking.
Alsace has kept to its traditions of excellent food and wines and beers. Fois Gras was invented here, using goose livers (in the south of France they use duck livers), and cheesecake, huge conical Kougelhopf sweet loaves, gingerbread, sauerkraut, fruit tarts, Munster cheese, spaetzle (noodles) and Flammekueche (tarte flambee) are all local specialities.
Beer has been brewed here since 1260 and is excellent, as are the red and white wines produced locally. Watch out for the marc – including the raspberry variety – pure rocket fuel. A good place to eat is the Meiselocker (www.meiselocker.fr) in the Rue des Frères, just a few minutes walk away from the main squares, which means it is not "touristy" and is used by the locals – always a good sign.
The food is excellent, the service second to none, the décor and ambiance full of charm and local atmosphere, and is good value for money. The waiter, Stephen, even went out of his way to show us a tea shop – this level of service is hard to find. English is spoken and the tea is good with cold milk (but no tea pots).
Another place is the Pfifferbriader, near the tourist boat landing point. (www.winstublepfiff.com) Again, good Alsatian food, good value for money, and as it is on a little square you can sit outside if you wish. Inside there is a lot to see, stained glass windows, lots of local items on little shelves, murals, and the table cloths are really special.
If, after all this eating and drinking you later need the toilet, the public toilets in Strasbourg are the best in France by a long way. They are all free, manned, and impeccably clean. Well done, Strasbourg. If you need to work off some calories, make use of over 500kms of cycle paths in and around the city – by bike, segway and even roller blades.
To see (by my count) 13 museums get a Strasbourg Pass, (adult) 16.90 Euros, available from the tourist office, for three days, giving you five free offers plus four half price offers and many reductions.
Strasbourg has a full range of hotels. I stayed at the Hotel Kleber (www.hotel-kleber.com) right on Place Kleber in the city centre, a 2 star hotel, over some shops by one of the tram lines, but a pedestrianised zone. It does not have air conditioning or public areas or a dining room, but it is spotlessly clean, friendly, and excellent value for money. It is about 5 to 10 minutes walk from the railway station, or you can catch a tram; ideal for exploring the city.
I was really very impressed with Strasbourg. The language in the streets is usually German, English is widely understood, though. You can cross to and from Germany over the river without noticing. I asked if prices are the same, and was told that some things are cheaper here, or there.
Strasbourg has its own airport, but it’s not easily accessible from here. I took the Lufthansa flight from Aberdeen to Frankfurt, from here the trains run from underneath the airport to Mannheim, change across the platform for Offenburg, where a smaller train connects to run across into Strasbourg. Lufthansa have a deal with DB (German railways) and you can buy a railway ticket at a good price when you book your flight, including reservations on the train. An excellent package, and on your return there is a FlyRail check-in at the station part of the airport so that you do not have to join the queues in the main check in. It all makes life easier. See www.lufthansa.com For more information on Strasbourg go to www.strasbourg.eu.
