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Relishing the prospect of ice fishing and igloo building


By Val Sweeney

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Rebecca Ross (16) and Calum Brindle (13) plot their route with fellow pupils who will be taking part in the exchange trip.
Rebecca Ross (16) and Calum Brindle (13) plot their route with fellow pupils who will be taking part in the exchange trip.

Rebecca Ross (16) and Calum Brindle (13) plot their route with fellow pupils who will be taking part in the exchange trip.

THE small Inuit community of Gjoa Haven, which lies about 155 miles inside the Arctic Circle, is a world away from the Black Isle.

Comprising just over 1000 residents, it is the only settlement on King William Island where winter lasts from September to May, temperatures drop to about -35C and there is 24-hour darkness in mid-winter.

In October next year, 13 intrepid pupils and two teachers from Fortrose Academy will undertake an epic journey involving four flights to reach the island, where a close bond has been formed with Quqshuun Illihakvik High School. During their stay, the pupils will take part in activities such as building igloos and dog sledging as well as learning more about the culture and the lifestyle of the Inuit people.

The connection was initially made by a parent who spent three successive summers sea kayaking through the North West Passage. Along the way, he made contact with the scattered communities, including Gjoa Haven, whose school subsequently developed links with Fortrose Academy.

Next year’s visit will be the second exchange trip undertaken by a group from Fortrose — the first being in October 2009 while a group from Gjoa Haven visited Black Isle last year.

Geography teacher Jamie Carcary, who was among the inaugural contingent, recalled the trip to the area where traditions such as hunting and fishing play an important role.

"We experienced Inuit traditions such as building an igloo, dog sledging and ice fishing where you make a hole in the ice," he said. "We also experienced Inuit culture and customs including drum dancing — and we all ate raw caribou, apart from one vegetarian!"

The group took part in lessons at the 200-pupil school which opened in 1972. Before then, many local residents had no opportunity for formal education.

"The pupils got on brilliantly with each other with some making lasting friendships — they still keep in touch through social networking sites and e-mail," Mr Carcary said.

Another member of the first group was Yolanda Calder, a learning support worker. "I think the highlights were getting in among the community which you would never have done otherwise," she reflected. "You got to see and do things you would not do as a holidaymaker. We got to see pupils in their homes, for example."

She was also struck by the isolation and the geography of the vast Arctic region. "To me one of the most fascinating experiences was flying over the ice," Mrs Calder said. "We also got to see the Northern Lights which the people were delighted about — they were desperate for them to come out while we were there."

The exchange visit by the Gjoa Haven pupils to Fortrose was equally successful and also gave the far northerners an insight into a different way of life and landscape here.

From the moment they stepped off the aircraft at Aberdeen, they were captivated by the greenness of the landscape, according to deputy head teacher Alistair Ferns.

"They had not seen trees before," he said. "They also found the animals were different. They had not seen sheep before. They had not seen horses.

"They had not seen potatoes growing in the ground so we had a nice wee day where we dug up some potatoes and took them into home economics to cook them."

They were also struck by the busy nature of Inverness and were mesmerised by Edinburgh.

As thoughts turn to next year’s trip, the Fortrose pupils, aged 12 to 16, are already planning a series of fund-raising events as it will cost about £1000 for each individual.

A sponsored duck race is set to take place at Rosemarkie Burn on 14th May while a community film night, a sponsored fire walk and a skills auction are among the other ideas.

Ben Beasley (12) explained the attraction of the visit. "Basically, it is because I am never going to get this chance again," he said. "It is a one-off and I really like the idea of going to the Arctic. I am looking forward to making an igloo."

Ben acknowledged, however, the food could be a slight problem in an area where the people enjoy a mainly meat-based diet. "I am vegetarian so I am going to have to take frozen food and cook it over there," he said.

Laurie McIntosh (12) revealed the furthest he has previously travelled is to Turkey. "I am looking forward to seeing the different cultures and seeing how their culture is different to ours," said Laurie, who is interested to see if there are any obvious signs of global warming. "I am looking forward to seeing how the landscape is different from here."

Sixteen-year-old Rebecca Ross has enjoyed previous school trips including an exchange visit to Germany. "I am looking forward to seeing a whole new world and making an igloo," she said. "I think the whole trip is going to be a great experience."

Anyone interested in supporting the fund-raising events should call Fortrose Academy on 01381 620310.

About Gjoa Haven

IT is King William Island’s only settlement and was named by polar explorer Roald Amundsen after his ship, Gjoa.

The Norwegian was attempting the first traverse of the Northwest Passage in 1903 but when the straits he was travelling through began to ice up, he put into what he described as "the finest little harbour in the world" on the south-east coast of the island. He was to stay there for nearly two years, spending time with the Inuit and learning to live off the land and travel efficiently.

Gjoa Haven later developed into a permanent settlement which today has a population of about 1000 people, the majority of whom are Inuit.

There are two main stores in town selling groceries, dry goods, Ski-Doos, boats and motors. They are supplied by an annual barge which brings non-perishable goods but items such as milk, cheese, eggs, bread, fruits and vegetables have to be flown in weekly, making them expensive.

Gjoa Haven is unique in the region in that it has been an alcohol-free community since 1982. Anyone possessing alcohol or having it on their breath, goes straight to jail and is fined.

Another by-law states that under 16s have to be in their house by 10pm during the winter to encourage youngsters to go to bed early on school nights. After the siren sounds, the by-law officer will drive around the hamlet ushering the youngsters home.


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