Wild day out on a classic ridge
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THE campsite was spot on, sheltered and with a view to the ridge we’d be traversing in the morning, which was still carrying lots of snow on its north side for so late on in April.
We’d walked in with heavy packs after parking the car in Strathconon, passing by Inverchoran farm then on up the steep track and over into Glen Orrin to set up camp.
Our sights were set on one of Scotland’s classic ridge walks, the Strathfarrar Four – a quartet of Munros that Roger and Fiona both needed to do on their quest to climb all 283.
I’d harboured intentions of approaching this ridge from the north for some time, so when Bill suggested a camping trip to do it I jumped at the chance.
The usual approach is from the south, up Glen Strathfarrar, with the ridge normally done from east to west.
On my own Munro round I’d done them in two groups, so this trip had the added incentive of doing the four in one go.
Rested and fed after the walk in, we retired to our tents for an early start. We’d return to camp after the day’s exertions and stay for another night before walking out.
Next day dawned cloudy and the wind had picked up but we set off optimistically, crossing a bridge over the River Orrin and on up the stalker’s path beside the Allt a’ Bhealaich Bhig.
The path continues to follow the burn towards Sgurr a’ Choire Ghlais, the highest Munro on the ridge at 1083 metres and our second target of the day, going from west to east.
We broke away from the burn at its junction with the Allt Coire na Sguile to cross rough, heathery ground, aiming for Carn an Fhiodha, a rounded mound forming the base of a spur coming down from Creag Gorm a’ Bhealaich – the top between our first two Munros.
A pair of golden plover sang their rather melancholy song that brightened our trudge across the moorland.
We veered due west over easy terrain to skirt frozen Loch an Fhuar-thuill Mhoir, a scene much more reminiscent of winter than spring.
The north ridge of Sgurr Fhuar-thuill, our first Munro of the day at 1049 metres, proved testing. Sleet was falling by now and in the strong wind care was needed to stay focussed on avoiding runnels of ice and frozen snow and find the easiest line.
Fiona and I arrived at the top ahead of the others and took shelter behind one of two large cairns to wait for them.
The weather was not looking good but as Roger and Bill joined us the cloud parted to give a view over into Glen Strathfarrar and the ridge snaking out ahead.
This is what we had come for and we ploughed on with renewed heart, glad that we’d persevered and not decided to call it a day when the weather turned foul.
Two kilometres of walking lay ahead, over the intervening top, before we could claim our second prize. But at least the snow had blown clear of the ridge line so the path could be seen.
Despite alternate showers of sleet, hail and rain we were glad to be there and it didn’t seem long before we arrived on Sgurr a’ Choire Ghlais with its two big cairns and a trig point almost buried in the snow.
It was time to take a longer break before heading down the fairly steep east ridge of Sgurr a’ Choire Ghlais to the bealach under the third Munro, Carn nan Gobhar.
This ridge was snow-covered so care was again needed on the descent. Once down the steepest section I cut the walk time short with a couple of glissades, using the ice-axe as a brake.
We were beginning to tire moving towards Carn nan Gobhar after the effort expended so far. But there was still one Munro to go and after that a five-kilometre walk back to camp over rough ground to follow.
The approach to Carn nan Gobhar is straightforward, with some delicate boulder-hopping to do to reach the cairn, where we were treated to a splendid view back towards Strathconon.
Bill decided he’d had enough and left Roger, Fiona and me to make for Sgurr na Ruaidhe while he returned to camp.
A drop of about a kilometre leads to a dip under Sgurr na Ruaidhe. Then we faced a grinding ascent on tired legs for another kilometre.
Fiona seemed to have most energy left and set off for the top while Roger and I followed in her wake, gritting our teeth and calling on the energy reserves we had left in the tank to make upward progress.
Finally we slumped at the cairn and had something to eat and drink to prepare us for the walk back.
The weather wasn’t done with us yet and heavy rain came on as we made for Glen Orrin and the bridge over the river. Camp, when we got there, was a welcome sight even in the wet.
It’s amazing what a night’s rest will do to revive flagging energy levels and despite a forecast of rain for our walk out, the morning dawned dry and sunny.
That made packing up a lot easier and the walk to a sunny Strathconon and the car a great way to end the trip.
