Wide vistas await on the Mound of the Herdsman
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YOU don’t have to climb high hills to get the best views, and one stand out example is Meall a’ Bhuachaille in the Cairngorms.
At 810 metres, ranking as a Corbett, it stands at the southern end of a ridge with two other named summits and one un-named, which can be included if you want to make a longer day of it.
I’ve been up Meall a’ Bhuachaille a couple of times lately, each in different weather conditions, providing different perspectives on what has to be, without question, one of the finest views in the area.
I always enjoy the anticipation of the drive down to Aviemore from Inverness, usually turning off at the junction for Carrbridge and the quieter road that leads into Aviemore, bustling with tourists in summer and skiers in winter.
The in-between season of autumn, with its wonderful colours, is generally less populated, with a chance for me to visit the Mountain Cafe in Aviemore after a day on the hill and enjoy a gluten-free feast to replace all that lost energy without having to wait for a table.
Through the town past the myriad outdoor shops brings me to the roundabout and the turn up the Coylumbridge road to Loch Morlich and eventually the Coire Cas car park.
I must have taken this turning countless times in all seasons to walk or climb in these wonderful mountains, but I never tire of the beauty the national park has to offer.
Many people climb Meall a’ Bhuachaille clockwise from the reindeer centre in Glen More, but I prefer an anti-clockwise circuit - especially if the whole ridge is to be followed to its northern tip on Craiggowrie.
Just beyond the reindeer centre a bridge crosses the Allt Mor and there’s a car park on the left down beside the river, which is easy to miss so approach slowly.
The walk begins along a good, wide path with little pop-out information boards along the way, giving an insight into the natural history. This is level, easy walking and a great way to start.
After around 600 metres a path branches off left, slightly uphill, away from the river to reach a stile and a gate into the Glenmore Lodge firing range, and a cautionary notice.
Our route continues round to the right, weaving through the trees to reach a well-surfaced track near the lodge’s main entrance. Turn right and follow this to Loch an Uaine, the green lochan, so called due to its green hue.
Further on at a path junction, keep left. The path to the right goes over the shoulder of Bynack More and into the Loch Avon basin.
Our path is much rougher for a short distance to Ryvoan Bothy, which has been upgraded from what was once a bare shell to a comfortable overnight stop. And the bothy book indicated how popular it has become. I added a comment and suggested a new book was needed with this one full.
The shelter is handy on a windy day if you want a break and a snack before the assault on Meall a’ Bhuachaille.
From the bothy, an excellent and very obvious path heads west uphill. The surface has been improved and drained to make the walking a delight.
It doesn’t take long before the views start to open up, providing a good excuse to stop and look if you’re out of puff.
Eastwards over the bothy, a huge expanse of countryside lies before you, unsullied as yet by wind farms or other man-made intrusion. Let’s hope it stays that way.
This is supreme backpacking territory, extending beyond the mighty barrier of the eastern Cairngorms to Ballater and Braemar.
On up the path the views get better and better with the northern corries and Cairn Gorm coming into focus now. The pop-out information boards are still there too for added detail.
There’s a steeper section of path, stepped to make the going easier, before the angle becomes less acute again for the final push to the summit of Meall a’ Bhuachaille.
The prevailing westerly winds can whip across the top like a knife so the big stone shelter on the top provides respite from the blast once you’re tucked in behind it.
Enjoy your coffee and head west from the summit to follow the descent path. In about half a kilometre it reaches a dip in the ridge dividing Meall a’ Bhuachaille from the next top, Creagan Gorm.
If you want a long circuit continue to Craiggowrie at the end and follow a path down to the forest. Tracks then lead to the western end of Loch Morlich. Taking the track along the south side of the loch is longer but very enjoyable, or there’s the alternative of the cycle track back to the start.
If missing out the rest of the ridge, continue on the path under Meall a’ Bhuachaille to reach the forest and then, keeping to the left, the reindeer centre.
An information board just before this tells you that Meall a’ Bhuachaille means "Mound of the Herdsman" because herders from small farms once dotted around the hill would take their animals there to graze on the lush grass.
You’ll be glad you climbed this "mound" and took advantage of such an incredible vantage point for viewing the Cairngorms.
