Whisked away on sun-soaked ride through whisky country
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Castles, distilleries and the highest village in the Highlands combine to make a wonderful outing by bike, whether you want to sightsee or just pedal.
Peter and I definitely opted for the former on this glorious trip to Tomintoul, the village basking in summer sunshine and us enjoying the relaxing pace.
We began our cycle at the main car park in the village centre, turning left out of it to head initially in the direction of Grantown-on-Spey on the A939. After just over a mile, the road drops nicely to cross the River Avon – pronounced something like “A’an” – then climb up the short hill beyond.
The views around this part of the Highlands are stunning, and every turn we took there was something to catch the eye, especially against the bright blue sky we were fortunate to be enjoying today.
Take a right turn at a little dip onto a minor road, and look out just a few yards after the junction for an interesting feature. Beside the road is a free-standing chimney, or “lum”, one of two in the area which were used in the 1920s and ’30s by roadmen who would build a temporary wooden shelter up against the lums so they could enjoy a fire as they took shelter during work.
Follow this fabulous quiet road through inspiring countryside as it parallels the river, crossing the Burn of Lochy before contouring round the base of the Cromdale Hills through Strath Avon. Immediately after this road crosses the river, you reach a junction with the B9136. Turn left onto it, heading for Glenlivet.
Despite its B-road status, this road wasn’t carrying much traffic even in the height of summer, and we enjoyed a leisurely ride, stopping here and there to take photographs or just take in the views. There are a couple of picnic spots along this stretch before the halfway point of our route at Drumin Castle. You can see the ruined tower from the road as you approach; to reach it, go past the farm, round the right-hand bend then turn sharp left down a steep hill to a car park just before a bridge.
We parked the bikes up and went to explore the castle, which is thought to have been built in the 1370s when King Robert II gifted the lands of Badenoch and Strath Avon to his son Alexander Stewart, who became known as the Wolf of Badenoch for his fiery temper and harsh justice.
Its walls are an impressive two metres thick and it’s possible to climb up to the first floor of the ruin via a narrow stone stairway. A circular path leads up to the castle from the car park and a bench near the top is a nice spot for a break.
Continue over the bridge on the minor road then briefly go uphill to meet the B9008. Turn right then, after about 1km, turn right just before the cemetery to cross another bridge.
A further 100 yards up the road, turn left where a large sign directs you towards Glenlivet Distillery.
There’s a bit of a hill here but if you’re a whisky fan the thought of a free tour and tasting may tempt you onwards and upwards!
The road goes right through the centre of the distillery and a wonderful aroma was penetrating the air as we pedalled on, resisting the temptation to stop for a dram.
A short way on you may notice Josie’s Well off the road to the left – this is one of the springs from which the distillery takes its water.
At the T-junction, go left over Gallowhill, with fine views back over the picturesque distillery and surrounding countryside, as well as to Ben Rinnes jutting into the skyline above another ruined castle at Castleton, south-east of the distillery.
You can then enjoy a delightful couple of kilometres as the road descends into Tomnavoulin, past the start of an Active Outdoors walk up Carn Daimh (week beginning April 16, 2012) to meet the B9008 again.
Turn right here to go through the tiny village, past another distillery (this one isn’t open to visitors, though) and up a long gradual hill past Auchnarrow and through a forest.
When the route finally begins to descend, you’re almost back in Tomintoul. Follow the road as it crosses a narrow bridge over the Conglass Water then passes the turn-off to Braemar via the Lecht. On a day like this, that acutely hilly route was tempting but, perhaps wisely, we opted to return straight ahead to the village centre, turning right to enjoy a brew at the teashop beside the car park.
