Travel in style on Great Glen getaway
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LONG-DISTANCE PADDLE
Great Glen Canoe Trail
Distance – 60 miles (95km)
Terrain – Canal, open lochs, river options
Maps – OS Landranger sheets 26, 34, 41; Great Glen Canoe Trail waterproof trail map
Start/finish – Fort William/Inverness
Travel from coast to coast on this spectacular waterway
This weekend sees the official launch of Scotland’s first formal canoe trail, stretching from Fort William to Inverness.
The route is already accessible to paddlers, linking up Loch Lochy, Loch Oich, Loch Ness and the little-mentioned Loch Dochfour with sections on canal or river.
But, with the Great Glen Canoe Trail now in place, there are facilities to back up this long-distance passage from west to east, including camping areas, low-level canoe pontoons and relevant information panels.
That means the route has been opened up to more paddlers, whether experienced or novice.
I certainly fall into the latter category when it comes to kayaking, but under the guidance of canoe trail project manager Donald Macpherson, I’ve been able to dip my feet in the water, so to speak, and get a feel for this spectacular new trail.
Those who tackle the full 60-mile journey will see magnificent views, historic monuments and remarkable feats of engineering along the way, which is recommended for open canoes or sea kayaks.
Both these types of craft are capable of storing enough luggage to keep you going for the suggested five days, from tents and sleeping bags to food and cooking equipment.
Although the full coast-to-coast journey begins at Corpach where Loch Linnhe enters the Caledonian Canal, the canoe trail’s official start is at Banavie Upper, where the series of locks known as Neptune’s Staircase is.
Apart from being more practical, this avoids having to portage all your gear and canoes across the busy A830 not long after you start paddling.
The section from Banavie Upper to Gairlochy, near the entrance to Loch Lochy, is truly spectacular, whether you’re on the water or walking or cycling on the towpath.
There are views to the north face of Ben Nevis and you pass the only remaining original swing bridge on the canal. Moy Bridge, built in 1812, is still operated by hand winch and is a superb piece of engineering. The whole canal, in fact, is a scheduled ancient monument.
Beyond Garilochy, long-distance paddlers will get their first taste of the open water in Loch Lochy, a great precursor of what’s in store on the much larger Loch Ness further on. I’ve yet to experience the open water sections of the trail, but can’t wait to give the route a go in full.
The beautiful short stretch of canal at Laggan links Loch Lochy with Loch Oich, the high point of the waterway before you start the descent towards Inverness from the Cullochy Lock onwards.
Loch Oich is a wonderful little loch and in these majestic surroundings it’s a great place to stop at one of the camps – or trailblazer rests – at Leiterfearn on the south shore.
As you pass under the swing bridge at Aberchalder, you enter another stretch of canal which leads all the way to Fort Augustus and into Loch Ness. There are a few portages to negotiate along this scenic stretch, particularly in the busy village of Fort Augustus itself, where a crowd regularly gathers to watch the boats going through the lock steps.
Loch Ness will be the highlight of the route for many visitors, and Donald suggests “canoe sailing” is a great way to speed up your traverse and save some energy too – but it’s only possible if the wind conditions are favourable.
This is a wild place and there are few opportunities to get to the shore and rest, so it’s important to conserve energy where you can.
Around Drumnadrochit you’ll pass the imposing remains of Urquhart Castle and it’s possible to get out here and visit the Historic Scotland property, presuming you’re travelling along the north shore of Loch Ness.
Eventually you’ll pass Lochend and enter Loch Dochfour, the smallest loch in the glen, where you’ll need to keep left to steer clear of the weir and enter the final stretch of the Caledonian Canal. There’s another trailblazer rest at Dochgarroch, from where it’s about 8km to the end of the trail at Clachnaharry in Inverness.
Canoeists with the skills and expertise can even tackle some river sections along the way, though this isn’t recommended for most of us with fully laden canoes!
The whole trail is a spectacular crossing and the opening up of the Great Glen waterways with this project means more and more people with be able to enjoy this wonderful area, and learn about its fascinating past – not to mention seeing it from a whole new perspective.
Have you paddled the new canoe trail? Let us know what you think and send us your photographs... email activeoutdoors@spp-group.com or write to Active Outdoors, New Century House, Stadium Road, Inverness IV1 1FG.
