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Taking the rough without the smooth


By Peter Evans

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Inverlael is the usual starting point for a foray into the rugged Beinn Dearg group of Munros, with potentially four to be picked up in a strenuous day.

The walk in is relatively easy up the long approach track and path through Gleann Squaib, leading to a couple of lochans encircled by Beinn Dearg, Cona Mheall and Meall nan Ceapraichean. A bike can be used at the start too, to take the sting out of the first few kilometres.

The southern approach to Beinn Dearg and Cona Mheall is a very different kettle of fish, however. The going is rough, with a lot of pathless ground to sap the energy levels, but the rewards are great if you're willing to take it on.

I fancied exploring the corrie under Beinn Dearg's south ridge, using the ridge itself to gain access to the summit. From the map, the logical way seemed to be to take the path heading north from the west end of Loch Droma, mainly used to reach the Corbett, Beinn Enaiglair.

Once on the ridge leading to the Corbett, I figured I could drop down the other side and head for Beinn Dearg.

I'd walked the path to Beinn Enaiglair twice before, so this time got comfortably to my ridge crossing point under Meall Feith Dhiongaig in around half an hour.

Then things got a lot harder as I descended diagonally over tussocky, often squelchy terrain towards the Allt Mhucarnaich, flowing through the base of the glen. Mercifully it was easy to cross – then came more rough stuff to the waterfall issuing from the corrie above. This was unknown territory and I wondered what I'd encounter above. Picking my way up the west side of the waterfall, I followed the right-hand water course to land on Beinn Dearg's south ridge.

Cliffs plunge from here into Loch a' Choire Ghranda, way below. Suddenly I felt vulnerable and alone in this wild place, so sat down for coffee and a sandwich to steady my nerves. The view extends all the way to Loch Glascarnoch, with the south ridge of Cona Mheall – a grade 1 scramble – on the opposite side of the Ghranda basin.

It can be used in combination with Dearg's south ridge to do a circuit of Choire Ghranda, something I've got on my to-do list.

The stony ridge to the summit of Beinn Dearg reared up in front of me but at least there was a faint path. I picked my way up through the rocks to where the angle eased, and it was then just a short step to the big cairn on the 1084-metre summit of the Munro. I expected to meet people on the top who'd come from Inverlael but surprisingly there was no-one. I lingered for a while, admiring the view north to the Sutherland peaks and An Teallach.

Rather than descend the same ridge I decided to try the spur to the west of it, on the other side of a miniature corrie cradling a tiny lochan, shown on the map.

Where it steepened lower down I veered off the the right, crossing a boulder field then mixed ground to the top of the waterfall. The day had been dry but overcast until now, when the sun made an appearance, so I found a perch for a last break before the walk out.

I knew the return would not be easy but it had to be done, so once down in the glen I tackled the rough ground across it again, trying to find the best line.

The rising traverse to the top of the ridge I'd come over earlier proved tiring and I was relieved to reach the top and find the path from Beinn Enaiglair, leading back to my start point at Loch Droma.

Thoughts turned to a wild camp for the circuit of Choire Ghranda, or a winter round, which must be spectacular.

Route details
Beinn Dearg south ridge

Distance 7.5 miles / 12km

Terrain Very rough, pathless ground for the most part, with a path at the beginning and end

Start/finish Car parking area at west end of Loch Droma off the A835

Map OS Landranger 20, Beinn Dearg

An arduous southern approach to Beinn Dearg which offers some spectacular mountain scenery


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