Taking the Mick after a blizzard on the Ben
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WINTER MOUNTAIN WALK
Ben Wyvis
Distance – 8km
Terrain – Snowy mountain path, rough heathery ground
Maps – OS Explorer 437 Ben Wyvis or Landranger 20 Ben Wyvis & Strathpeffer
Start/finish – Garbat car park, north of Garve on A835
Winter walk over difficult, snowy terrain – normally a straightforward path to follow
WITH snow and ice covering the Ullapool road early on a winter’s morning, I was seriously worried whether I’d be able to reach the start of my walk in to the Fannichs.
The route was already mapped out in my mind’s eye – take the track to Loch a’ Bhraoin off the A832 and do a circuit of Meall a’ Chrasgaidh and Sgurr nan Clach Geala.
Concentrating hard on the driving, all went well until I reached Braemore Junction and turned onto the Gairloch road. It was covered in around three inches of snow and didn’t look promising for safe passage. I drove a short way, following the tracks of the only other vehicle that had ventured along it, but quickly decided this was not a good idea.
By now the light was coming up and the snowy outlines of the mountains invited me to climb them. I was not about to waste what looked like being a brilliant winter day so a rethink was needed.
I had already begun to consider an alternative before reaching Braemore Junction, knowing my original plan might be thwarted.
Ben Wyvis was top of the list as a good standby, and although I didn’t have a map it looked like the visibility was not going to be a problem and I could always turn back if the weather closed in. Prophetic thoughts, as it turned out.
Back down the road to the Wyvis car park I was greeted by a band of snowboarders gearing up for a session on the slopes, music blasting away from one of their vehicles.
Just behind me into the car came Mick – a member of the Dundonnell rescue team – who had driven rather precariously up from Ullapool, also intent on a day on Ben Wyvis.
He set off just before me, our footprints the first up the path breaking virgin snow. We met at the forest track that crosses the path in just under a kilometre and agreed to pair up for the rest of the day. At least Mick had a map if we needed it.
Carrying on along the path we were overtaken by another walker, Colin, with two collie dogs for company, who had a pair of snow shoes strapped to his rucksack. He made quick progress to the National Nature Reserve sign at the edge of the forest where we joined him.
And then there were three. Colin donned his snow shoes with Mick and I hoping it would make life easier for us in the soft snow, following in his wake.
Unable to find the path we made off on a line across the heather, trudging through soft snow that sapped the energy from us, stopping frequently. Even Colin’s snow shoes were not much use but at least the banter was flowing and we were enjoying the day.
As we gained height the weather began to close in and the wind got up. My lovely sunny day with snow-capped mountains glistening in the sunlight rapidly began to change – a reminder of how unpredictable mountain weather can sometimes be.
By now more walkers, including the snowboarders, were snaking their way up the mountain behind us.
A large boulder above gave us a landmark to aim at and marked the path line. We took a break there and moved on up to An Cabar, the high point at the start of the summit plateau.
The snow had hardened in the wind at this height and the going was easier as we pushed on, having been overtaken by a couple of fell runners wearing trainers, who seemed not to be bothered by the snow and were clearly a lot fitter than us.
Approaching An Cabar the weather had turned into a blizzard, with visibility almost nil. Worried about the road conditions for his return to Ullapool, Mick decided he would go no further than An Cabar, and without a map I didn’t think it wise to continue either.
Colin’s dogs were also not happy so we all agreed to descend after huddling behind the cairn for a quick break.
In true mountain rescue style, Mick took a bearing so we could be certain of taking the right line down and speedily got out of the blast on the plateau and into calmer conditions.
Still more people were coming up the path now, which was easier to see on the way down so our progress was rapid.
Just after the National Nature Reserve sign I put my foot on a cross drain and traction deserted me as I took a somewhat acrobatic tumble into the heather.
"You’ll be alright then," said Mick, after my unceremonious landing.
Unless you’ve suffered a compound fracture or blood is spouting from a coronary artery, no-one has much sympathy in these situations.
"Yes I’m ok," I responded, with nothing more than damaged pride and a skinned knee to show for the mishap.
We reached the car park without further incident and went our separate ways, friends for a day in a shared mountain experience. Chance acquaintances can sometimes make your day out all the more interesting.
