Sidestepping the smugglers
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This run over Carn Daimh takes place on the Glenlivet Estate, an often-overlooked gem of natural resources. Mountain springs feed the many distilleries, and the well-managed hills allow easy access to walkers, cyclists, horse riders and, not forgetting, runners.
I parked in an icy Clash Wood car park in Tomnavoulin on a fabulous winter’s day, a welcome respite from some of the wild winter weather we’d been having. Clouds scudding quickly overhead revealed a brisk wind, but I was well wrapped up against the chilly weather.
Setting off up the forestry trail, fingers crossed that the precariously parked car wouldn’t slide downhill while I was away, I soon turned left onto a lovely trail along the edge of the woods. Snow-covered Carn Daimh, my objective, appeared above the farmland ahead and, after crossing a couple of fences, I took the lower of two farm tracks leading up the hill.
Farm vehicles had compressed the slightly wet snow to much less forgiving ice and I had to concentrate hard to make sure it was only my feet and not other, more tender, parts of my body that made contact with the ground.
To navigate yourself, ignore signposts pointing out a waymarked smugglers trail, and instead look out for the more subtle blue and white arrows. The Glenlivet Estate has created several smugglers trails, each taking in a route pertinent to some of Glenlivet’s most notorious characters. This area is steeped in distilling history and the walks follow the paths of smugglers who engaged in a game of cat and mouse with the excise men across these hills.
Once you reach Westertown Farm, follow the track past it and cross the stream. The track will soon bear right along the hill, and pass a gate before reaching another stream. Cross this and continue straight on up the track and along the right-hand side of the fields.
I found the exact path unclear as it was now much snowier than I had anticipated and it was hard to tell what was solid underfoot and what was a deep bog with a deceptively inviting foot-deep covering of pristine snow.
Not surprisingly, by the time I reached the gate into the wood at the top of the field my feet were soaking and my progress had been slowed somewhat by having to heave myself, in a very ungainly fashion, out of waist deep drifts-cum-bogs.
Follow the path up through the forest, which continues as a mixture of good going and boggy sections. Upon reaching a very muddy junction, which I believe is probably the same in all weathers, turn right to join the Speyside Way, following the sign to Ballindalloch.
The track starts to climb, still among the trees, but then levels out and firms up. Reinvigorated, I couldn’t help attempting to hurdle the snowdrifts across the path.
The path breaks out onto the moorland with fantastic views north and east to Ben Rinnes and the Ladder Hills. Following the obvious track alongside a fence, the summit of Carn Daimh is clear ahead.
The forest ends about halfway along the ridge and it was a pleasant surprise as, although stiff, the wind was neither as strong nor as cold as I had feared in this exposed section. The views from the summit were spectacular in all directions. Looking west beyond the Cromdale Hills, I glimpsed the Cairngorms, looking an ominous grey under low wintry clouds.
Taking advantage of the firmer snow filling the track, I accelerated down the short slope north, enjoying the fast going. Soon another signpost is reached on the edge of a plantation. Continue in the direction of Ballindalloch, alongside the wood and across what a route guide describes as “tussocky hell”. I’m afraid I’m unable to argue with this description but the excellent views do make up for this section of slow, awkward going.
Reaching a fence, follow the Speyside Way markers across it and onto a track contouring around the hill.
Throughout the run I had been alone, but for this section I had some brief company in the form of two American fast jets, flying low through the hills, presumably having just overflown Glenlivet Distillery on their way south from the ranges further north.
The track heads gently down the hill, with views of Glenlivet and the distillery ahead. There is an information board just before a gate and, passing through it, keep between the forest and the fence line as the path heads down the hill. There is one more pedestrian gate and the path then becomes a track, winding through the fields onto the public road at Blairfindy Lodge.
Bear right onto the road and carry straight on at the next junction. The road now descends at a pleasing gradient giving an easy last few kilometres of running to finish the trip.
The road is generally quiet but keep an eye and ear out for distillery and farm traffic.
I arrived back at Clash Wood car park, car still in place despite the ice, a couple of hours after I had set off. My legs were tired from the tough going, but equally invigorated by the wintry wilderness.
Running the hills in winter is a fabulous experience, but if you are new to trail running please note that hills are a much bigger undertaking in winter than in summer, especially when your primary protection is only Lycra!
The Mountaineering Council of Scotland has a wealth of resources regarding mountain safety, and I would recommend visiting its website www.mcofs.org.uk for more information.
