Over a hill that’s far away
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The long trek in to Seana Bhraigh is one worth repeating.
THERE is no getting away from it, if you want to climb Seana Bhraigh you are in for a long day – unless you decide to camp or stay at the bothy alongside Loch a’ Choire Mhor.
It vies with A’ Mhaidhean in Fisherfield and Lurg Mhor, east of Strathcarron, for the title of remotest Munro, and is probably why it has been left towards the end of my round.
The usual approach is from the west, where a track leads from the walkers’ car park at Inverlael. Common with the route in to the Beinn Dearg group of Munros to begin with, it then branches off to the left for Seana Bhraigh.
But to see this very impressive mountain at its grandest, the best approach is from Oykel Bridge in the east. The mountain is tantalisingly hidden for the first seven kilometres to Corriemulzie Lodge, but then bursts into view in all its glory.
The north-east ridge, rising steeply above Luchd Choire and its loch, is what draws the eye and gives the mountain a slightly intimidating feel – "come on then, climb me if you dare".
It is a fair drive from Inverness to Oykel Bridge, passing through Ardgay, Bonar Bridge and Rosehall. Today it was made all the more pleasant by the weather and, by the time I reached Oykel Bridge, the sun was beating down and all was definitely right with the world.
It is possible to drive as far as Corriemulzie Lodge, where the estate has thoughtfully provided walkers with a car park. But unless you have a 4x4 or you value your car’s suspension, I would not recommend it.
So I parked up on the west side of the River Oykel, close to the bridge, and got on the bike. A short stretch of minor road passes some houses then becomes a track leading through Glen Einig.
It soon crosses a bridge on to the south side of the River Einig and continues to Duag Bridge, spanning the Abhainn Dubhag. After the bridge, the track veers round to the south west to follow Strath Mulzie from here on, reaching the lodge in another three kilometres.
Planning this day, I had looked at pictures of Seana Bhraigh, but the real thing – standing out in bright sunlight – was an amazing sight, drawing me on towards it.
The track is decidedly bumpy after Corriemulzie Lodge and the ride was not easy, slowing my progress as I negotiated the ruts, dips and small burns. But Seana Bhraigh was getting ever nearer.
I left the bike just before a ford across the track, which continues to the bothy and Loch a’ Choire Mhor.
The original plan was to spend a night in the bothy and scramble the north-east ridge to its summit, Creag an Duine, descending by the much easier north-west ridge.
With that plan sidelined, I plodded up the pathless slope of the north-west ridge, weaving upwards until the final pull of about 500 metres to top out on the apex of the ridge.
I was greeted by an incredible view across Luchd Choire and, ahead of me, the north face of Seana Bhraigh, plunging hundreds of feet to the corrie floor. I could barely take my eyes off it and kept gazing into the depths of the corrie as I made my way towards a small lochan that sits at the base of the last 400 metres of ridge to the summit.
From a distance, the much sharper north-east ridge looks like it should lead to the summit and, from an aesthetic point of view, ought to be the top. But Creag an Duine is lower.
I reached the top, unburdened myself of my rucksack and sat down to eat, drink and be merry at the view of the Sutherland peaks that now attracted my gaze – Suilven and Stac Pollaidh the most distinctive.
I had seen no one so far and was slightly taken aback when another walker’s head popped up. He was being followed by friends and family some way behind, he told me.
All of them were staying in accommodation nearby on a Highland holiday – something my acquaintance said he did every year. This time they could not have hit a better spell of weather.
Half an hour passed and it was time to make my way down again. The descent was quick and easy and
I rejoined the bike for a final look back at Seana Bhraigh before heading down the track. I vowed to return for the circuit of the ridges another time for, although this is not an easy hill to reach, it demands more than one visit.
With more downhill on the way out, the ride was a thoroughly enjoyable way to end the day, especially after the lodge with a good track to ride on.
Driving back to Inverness I could reflect on a day well spent.
