Intriguing tales from beyond the grave
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Graveyards are fascinating places, opening a window on the social and economic history of an area through the people buried there.
The church at Dunlichity, on the east side of Loch Ness, dates from 1758 – with the remaining old part being built much earlier, in 1569 – and has some intriguing headstones.
Where they can still be read they tell fascinating stories, and one in particular caught my eye as I wandered around, checking out the graves of several ministers and people who worked on the land.
Alexander McIntosh, a brakesman on the Highland railway, was 40 years old when he was killed in an accident at Bonar Bridge station in Sutherland on November 27, 1889. Despite searching online I could find no more information, leaving more questions than answers about Alex and his fate. Perhaps a reader can throw more light on the incident.
The cemetery was on the last leg of a road bike circuit which began at the Essich roundabout in Inverness and eventually passed the north end of Loch Duntelchaig to reach the church, before returning.
A short distance past the roundabout I took the right turn for Torbreck and Dores, following the blue National Cycle Network Route 78 sign.
Reaching the junction with the B862 I headed towards Dores, using the cycle path to keep out of the way of passing traffic. It may not be ideal for speed on a road bike but I consider my life more important and wasn’t in a hurry anyway.
At Scaniport the cycle route turns along a minor road, parallel to the main road, which gives just over three kilometres of delightful rural riding – a theme which continues for the rest of this circuit.
Where the road bears right to join the B road again I turned left for a testing uphill stretch of around two kilometres with little respite. Part of the way up I was glad of a break at the McBain Memorial Park and went in to have a look around.
The McBains were once major landowners around Dores but their holdings were lost after the Battle of Culloden. In an effort to restore something of the clan’s connection to the area, a small amount of land was bought from the Burton brewing family and Hughston McBain, 21st clan chief, created the memorial park, completed in 1961.
It’s a strange, almost quaint place, tinged with a hint of sadness and regret. Steps lead up to a seating area with a plaque dedicated to clan McBain “whose ancient chiefs once owned extensive lands in this area”.
Alongside the bronze-coloured plaque is a smaller one bearing a warning: “Bronze, brass or worth money, I am not, leave it to a frugal Scot. So steal me not, lest you be cursed and die, amongst all kinsmen, first.”
Saddling up again I rode on to the crossroads at the top of the hill, keeping straight on along the minor road past the south end of Loch Ashie and on to the north end of Loch Duntelchaig.
It’s the main reservoir supplying Inverness – five kilometres long and over 60 metres deep at its south end – and despite the dry weather it seemed pretty full.
It gives way to the much smaller Loch a’ Chlachain, with Dunlichity church a short distance further along the minor road. The church has a connection with royalty, the Duke and Duchess of Gloucester having worshipped there when they stayed at House of Farr during the shooting season.
My tour of the cemetery over, I continued to the next junction and turned left, signed to Bunachton, to climb a steep little hill before the road levels out.
From then on it’s a super ride across the moor and a fast descent back towards the Essich roundabout.
Route details
Loch Duntelchaig circuit
Distance 15 miles / 24km
Terrain Cycle path and minor roads
Start/finish Essich roundabout, Inverness
Map OS Explorer 416, Inverness, Loch Ness and Culloden
A mix of hills and easy riding along scenic, quiet roads on the east side of Loch Ness
