Hidden gem in the hills
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When I first started gathering Munros in the Monadhliath there were two more than there are now, with Carn Ballach and Carn Ban since demoted.
My first foray involved a winter trip on the train from Stirling to Newtonmore in the hope of bagging a hill and returning on the same day.
This turned out to be wildly optimistic and I was soon beaten back by deep snow, proving that walking in winter can be a steep learning curve.
The next trip proved much more successful. This time it was summer and I bivouacked after an evening stroll into the hills, setting off next day on a circuit over what would then have got me three Munros, including the two now demoted.
But there’s far more to the Monadhliath than Munros and a study of the map reveals a huge expanse of land pockmarked by burns and minor summits. Indeed, the interior is rarely visited by anyone other than the odd determined backpacker.
This walk takes in an ascent of one of those hills that are overlooked by Munro-baggers – a Graham called Creag Liath. A circuit over it combines an easy track with much rougher ground and a steep ascent or descent, depending on the direction it’s climbed.
Rosemary and I began in spring heat from the parking area at the end of the minor road into Glen Banchor, accessed from Newtonmore. While others set off for the Munros we made our way west on a track down a slope to cross the bridge over the Allt a’ Chaorainn, which flows towards the River Calder.
I’d decided on a clockwise circuit, getting the steep part of the route out of the way first, leaving an easier return.
The Glen Banchor track turns north to follow the Allt Fionndrigh, and after about a kilometre we made our way down to the burn and found a place to cross. This might not be so easy when the burn is in spate.
Then it was a question of slowly ascending the sharp, pathless gradient to reach the shoulder of Creag Liath. A huge herd of at least 80 deer above us took off to contour round the side of the hill as we edged higher.
Once on easier ground we carried on to the summit cairn at 743 metres with a lovely view up the broad expanse of Gleann Balloch with a narrow ridge above it leading to Carn Dearg, one of the Monadhliath Munros. Hidden behind it is a scenic corrie cradling a loch – one of the finest spots in the range.
We carried on to the summit and watched a mountain hare as it lolloped its way across the slope. The hill is bounded on its eastern side by crags, giving it some character.
Continuing the circuit involves a descent of Creag Liath’s north ridge to join a path marked on the map. This leads to a footbridge over the Allt Fionndrigh and the approach track back to Glen Banchor.
Two curious hinds kept a close eye on us as we approached the left turn back to the car park but were happy to stay put and not bolt away.
They had been watched by an intrigued Dutch backpacker who was heading for Newtonmore. He revealed that this was the best weather he had ever had on several visits to Scotland over the years, and we had to agree after such a glorious day out that he had charmed the weather gods this time.
Route details
Creag Liath (Monadhliath)
Distance 5.3 miles / 8.5km
Terrain Track, hill path and pathless ground
Start/finish Parking area at end of minor road into Glen Banchor from Newtonmore, along Glen Road
Map OS Landranger 35, Kingussie
This Graham in the heart of the Monadhliath gives a fairly straightforward ascent with some fine views from the summit
