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Ferrying cross the firth


By Peter Evans

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The Cromarty Bridge from the high road between Dingwall and Evanton.
The Cromarty Bridge from the high road between Dingwall and Evanton.

WATER can be a bit of a nuisance when you’re planning a bike ride if it gets in the way of completing a circuit.

So ferries are a great boon – and the one that plies the narrows between Nigg and Cromarty opens up the prospect of some brilliant rides.

It only runs from the end of May to the end of September and I’d been thwarted previously when I tried to do a round of the Cromarty Firth from Dingwall to Nigg, back through the Black Isle, and the ferry failed to run on the first day.

So it was with a tinge of anxiety that I set off from Ross-shire’s county town again heading for Nigg, hoping to avoid a repeat performance.

I took the Strathpeffer road out of Dingwall and turned right onto the minor road to Evanton, signed for Tulloch Castle hotel. It’s a stiff climb through the houses, but once the ascent is over there’s very little climbing to do for the rest of this ride. At the top of the hill I pulled over for a breather and took in the beautiful view across the firth and down to the Cromarty Bridge, arcing over the water.

The road was quiet and I was looking forward now to the long, mostly downhill stretch to Evanton. It’s a great antidote to the previous climb and I bowled along to the junction with the B817, turning left at the impressive war memorial to pass through the village. The road crosses the river flowing from Blackrock Gorge and continues to Alness, hugging the railway line. Staying on the B road I headed for Invergordon, with the Cromarty Firth for company, then on through the attractive little village of Barbaraville to Kilmuir.

A break was in order so I sat outside the church and had a look round the graveyard, where unusual headstones in Rangers and Celtic colours commemorate brothers John and Colin Stewart, who tragically died within five months of each other. Colin drowned aged just 19 and John, 23, collapsed at a friend’s house. Their graves reflect their passion for football.

Shortly after Kilmuir the B817 passes under the A9 to join it for a very short stretch. Take great care to cross to the opposite side and access the minor road to Kildary, going up over the railway line and on to Arabella. The riding is easy and there are no more busy roads

to contend with from now on.

I cycled along enjoying the scenery, turning right at Arabella onto the B9175 which rounds the head of Nigg Bay.

As I got closer to Nigg, cars coming towards me indicated the ferry was indeed running and that this time I could complete my circuit.

There’s plenty of activity at Nigg these days now the yard has been bought over by the Global Energy Group as a service facility for the oil and gas and renewables industries.

The only passengers apart from me on the ferry to Cromarty were two English cyclists who had been touring in Scotland and were making for an overnight stop at Inverness. We parted company at Cromarty and after a drink and a sandwich I set off along the shore road to pass through the delightfully named Jemimaville and round Udale Bay to Balblair. The B9163 swings left here and straightens out to continue through the Black Isle in somewhat relentless fashion for 8kms to a fork in the road.

The right branch drops down to the A9 at the south end of the Cromarty Bridge. A quick dogleg takes you onto the opposite side of the A9 and the B road again to Alcaig. This is a lovely quiet road to cycle and the perfect end to the ride before the final few kilometres into Dingwall.

After Alcaig comes Corntown and you’re soon at the busy A835 with Conon Bridge on the other side.

A convenient cycle track avoids the road to a roundabout where the cycle track continues into Dingwall.


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