Family matters in a legacy of care for the countryside
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THE backdrop could not be more magnificent — the Cairngorms, rising to 4000ft, with a sub-arctic climate where winds can reach speeds of 170mph, beloved of mountaineers, climbers, walkers and skiers for decades.
The foreground is gentler but no less scenically appealing. Here are forests and lochs, home to a host of birds and animals such as the osprey, deer, red squirrels and the shy capercaillie.
It is a playground for outdoor enthusiasts who visit the area in their thousands every year to pursue whatever activity takes their fancy. Since 2003 the landscape and its people have also become part of Britain’s largest national park, adding to its attraction for visitors from home and overseas.
But this is a working environment too, where people earn their living, and one estate that is synonymous with the Cairngorms is Rothiemurchus, owned and run by the Grant family for 18 generations.
Stretching from the River Spey at Aviemore to the watershed in the Cairngorms massif, it includes the approach to the Lairig Ghru pass and Braeriach, Britain’s third largest mountain.
I spoke to the current encumbents, Johnnie Grant and his wife Philippa, to discover what running an estate is like in a place where their property is invaded by more than 300,000 visitors a year.
The use of my word "invaded" would be anathema to the Grants, who welcome with open arms thrill-seekers pursuing an adrenaline rush, as well as those who want to bird watch, quietly stroll or cycle among the trees on a 60km nurtured path network.
It is the forest which takes pride of place on this estate. "Rothiemurchus is probably different to most estates, basically because it is extremely important for what is now called ‘biodiversity’," said Philippa. "It is principally about the forest and the habitat it creates."
That includes not just the easily recognisable Caledonian pines but deciduous trees such as birch, rowan, willow, hazel, elm and horse chestnut, to name just a few.
For an example of the way the forest and its visitors exist in harmony, you need only visit a popular jewel, Loch an Eilein, voted Britain’s best picnic spot as part of celebrations to mark the 10th anniversary of Warburtons National Bread Week in May last year, much to the Grants’ delight.
It is not difficult to see why visitors are drawn to this lovely place, though efforts are being made to show them that there is lots more to Rothiemurchus — hence the development of the path network.
"We’ve always had recreation in the forest here," Philippa explained. "I get quite moving stories and letters saying what being in the forest has meant to people and how, at difficult times in their lives, they’ve thought about being here — it’s a very emotional experience for them."
And with no fewer than 10,000 hectares at your disposal, it is still relatively easy to get away from the madding crowd, find peace and quiet in the fresh air and watch the wildlife.
"There is a full-time forester who helps with the forest plans and organises the management of the woodland in terms of improving its value for biodiversity," said Johnnie. "A very important part of achieving natural regeneration of the forest is keeping deer numbers and grazing at the right levels."
Stalker Peter Ferguson ensures that deer are culled to prevent young trees being eaten before they can become established. But Johnnie points out that this does not interfere with the year-round recreational demands on the area.
Philippa believes the estate’s continuous ownership by the same family for 450 years has brought benefits through a deep attachment to Rothiemurchus, unlike estates run by absentee landlords.
"The interesting thing about that is it has meant continuity of care," she said. "You can trace different interests in each member of the family. They’ve all had this utter passion for the forest but some have liked having people living in it, while others have wanted to drive a carriage through it — which is why there’s a cycle path round Loch an Eilein. Some have wanted to paint it and some have been more interested in the forestry and the timber.
"That’s why the forest has stayed. It has always been economically important to the estate but it’s incredibly beautiful and people have loved it."
The recreational demands have changed over time and the Grants have responded accordingly. A wide variety of activities is now on offer, from clay pigeon shooting to pony hacking, from archery to canoeing.
One of the latest is river tubing, which involves hurtling down a river on a sophisticated version of an inner tube, and it is proving a popular choice.
The estate uses outside providers for many of its activity packages, giving much-needed employment.
And there are some things that do not fit the image the Grants are trying to create at Rothiemurchus, so paintballing is seen as a no-no. There is quad bike trekking, but in this case it means a gentle ride through the forest, seeing the birds and animals and views of the mountains, not racing at full throttle.
Johnnie is at pains to point out that everything the estate does is "sustainable" — another of those buzzwords like "biodiversity" that everyone in the conservation and environmental sphere talks about, but which have a tremendous influence on policy.
Being in a national park has "raised the bar" for Rothiemurchus, as Johnnie puts it. The park has four central aims: to conserve and enhance the natural and cultural heritage of the area; to promote sustainable use of its natural resources; to promote understanding and enjoyment (including enjoyment in the form of recreation) of the special qualities of the area by the public; and to promote sustainable economic and social development of its communities.
"Basically if what you’re doing doesn’t achieve those aims it’s just not going to work," Johnnie added.
"It’s all to do with nature and people together. It’s about us caring for the place and helping people who visit here to understand how they can care for the place."
Fine words that the Grants, from the feedback they get from their visitors, are living up to.
