Chance encounters
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I’M always amazed at the number of times I’ve unexpectedly met people I know in the hills. But maybe I shouldn’t be because this mountaineering fraternity of ours is relatively small.
A planned solo day on two Munros in the western Fannichs was made all the more enjoyable by one such chance encounter.
I’d set my sights on a round of Sgurr Breac and A’ Chailleach, leaving home early to get the best of the winter daylight.
It snowed all the way up past Ben Wyvis and Loch Glascarnoch to Braemore Junction, with cloud lowering over the eastern Fannichs and the Deargs.
But I kept faith with the weather forecast, which promised an improving day. Sure enough, by the time I reached the car park about five kilometres along the A832 to Poolewe, the snow had stopped and the sky was showing signs of brightness.
Another car had made it ahead of me and as I went over to greet its occupants, who were just about to leave, wondering what plans they had. One of them recognised me.
Colin and I had met once before on Ben Wyvis in a shared encounter with the leader of Dundonnell rescue team, Mick Holmes. This time Colin had Ali with him for company – both Dingwall resdients – as well as two dogs, and their objectives were the same as mine. Colin suggested we join up and I readily agreed.
So we made our way along the track that leads alongside the forestry plantation to the head of Loch a’ Bhraoin and a new stretch of path that doglegs left through the forest to avoid the boggy shoreline. It crosses a bridge over the outflow from the loch and onto a long path that splits the Fannichs and eventually crosses a high bealach to Loch Fannich.
There are various ways to do the two Munros we had in mind but I was keen to ascend Druim Reidh, the ridge between them. Leitir Fhearna, a small crag at its base, looks slightly intimidating from below but is easier than it appears.
We picked our way up through it with the dogs, as they do, finding their own way, to reach the broader ridge.
Some peat hags have to be crossed at first but the ground was well frozen and progress was easy until I found a gap in the ice and both feet went through into the glutinous bog.
I managed to extricate them but I could feel some water had got through my gaiter into my left boot. I’d have to live with it for the rest of the day.
On we pressed in a freezing side wind blowing from the east and gusting at around 35mph to reach Toman Coinnich, the top between the two Munros. Sheltering behind some rocks for a bite to eat and hot coffee, we all agreed that Sgurr Breac was off the menu in the wind and that we would turn west to A’ Chailleach and be satisfied with one Munro.
The summits were clear as we gazed down onto frozen Loch Toll an Lochan in the corrie bowl beneath and beyond, An Teallach – white with snow and tinged pink by the sun, a magnificent sight.
Descending from Toman Coinnich to the bealach underneath A’ Chailleach was straightforward enough and we were soon starting up the approach ridge with Ali leading the way.
Still being blasted by the wind, which seemed to be more south-easterly now, we were pleased to reach the summit at 997 metres. Backtracking slightly, a descent of the sharp little ridge of Sron na Goibhre on the other side of the lochan gave us some respite from the wind.
The walking was easier now but we still had to get down into the corrie bowl and back to our start point, contouring around the base of Druim Reidh. Easy enough for us with crampons on to deal with rock-hard snow and ice – but not so easy for the dogs.
Colin linked them together on a lead and we gingerly made our way down along frozen grassy shelves to reach safer ground. Dogs can be remarkably sure-footed when they need to be.
Crossing the outflow from the lochan we walked over the rough, pathless ground to reach a gate in the deer fence and a track that led us back to the bridge at Loch a’ Bhraoin.
After an early start we were at the cars by 2pm, completely satisfied by a good day on the hill and pleasant conversation. Chance encounters can indeed lead to better days.
