ACTIVE OUTDOORS: Not such a tough nut to crack on Chno Dearg and Stob Coire Sgriodain

Most of the literature surrounding these two Munros in the Central Highlands refers to the assertion that a mapping error has been made and repeated over the years.

Earlier maps show Chno Dearg – which translates to red nut – as Cnoc Dearg, which has the more mundane meaning of red hill. Either way, on a day of high cloud this 1046m summit and its neighbour Stob Coire Sgriodain were not particularly difficult nuts to crack.

With complex bealachs and bumpy terrain, however, that might not necessarily be the case if the pair were shrouded in cloud, but we made the most of a brief weather window – and a better-than-expected forecast.

A small parking area at the road-end at Fersit just about had room for us late arrivals, and we set off on foot past a few houses and over the river and railway, passing pretty birch woods and a fine Scots pine on the way.

The route sticks to the main track past a few houses and farm buildings, then turns right to go through an obvious grassy area past a red-roofed hut. Being overly keen, we’d already cut across the tougher ground to reach this point, but at least it set us up for what was to come!

Heading straight for the nose of the rough hill – Sròn na Gàrbh-bheinne – seemed the obvious way to tackle the first Munro on an anticlockwise round. After Peter and I found our separate ways upwards at first, we both came upon a path of sorts leading alongside one of myriad burns that meander down from the steep slopes above.

We kept well left of a clear outcrop, following the route of the burn until we were much higher up, then going off-piste to aim directly for the bottom of a grassy slope that offered a neat angle up the face.

This line of weakness proved well-used, and we paused for something from the flask before tackling the steep ascent. Refreshed and replenished, we made our way slowly up the slope, which was easy enough but had the heart pumping.

There are plenty of rocks to negotiate but there was only one real hands-on move, and even that was not at all committed. Still, after all the effort it was nice to emerge to an easier gradient, even if we were now more exposed to the chill effects of the wind.

Adding a layer of clothing, we plodded onwards and upwards, heading roughly south up the ridge and catching up with a group of four now a short distance ahead of us.

The heavy slog of a slope up to this point was made worthwhile as we stepped to the edge of Coire Sgriodain and admired the outlook across Loch Treig. The summit was now a short walk around the rim and we caught up with the group as they stopped for a break at the cairn that marks the 979m Stob Coire Sgriodain.

After taking in the views, we went a little further and enjoyed our lunch in the cleft marked on the OS Explorer map as Glac Bhan. A hill runner doing a similar circuit as us in the opposite direction went past as we finished eating and set off over the hill’s two other tops, then descended to a bealach.

The bealach below the next Munro, however, is 20 metres or so higher, which we did eventually remember as we were chatting away, so we headed up to the low point between Meall Garbh and Chno Dearg.

The final 100 metres of so of ascent is on an easy grassy slope, and we were soon at the enormous cairn that marks the high point of our round for the day. The panoramic views were again something to behold, and I looked over Strathossian towards the Ben Alder range and out west to Ardverikie.

To the east is Glen Nevis, while south-west stand the mighty hills of Glencoe. All these high mountains I’ve mentioned without a public road between us and them.

There is certainly something of perspective and of scale about being out in the Scottish hills. Our senses are sharpened and our focus shifts, helping us to prioritise what’s important.

We hadn’t seen a real path since leaving the farm buildings at Fersit, but our plan now was to head roughly north, skirting the tops of Meall Chaorach and Creag Dhubh, to meet the one that leads back there from Strathossian.

The going isn’t easy on the way down, negotiating boulders and tussocky ground, not to mention occasional remaining patches of snow.

Finally, after about three-and-a-half kilometres of this tough walking, we reached the edge of the plantation forest. The only problem now was that the better path was the other side of the high deer fence.

However, the worn way this side of the fence was infinitely better than what we’d been battling for the last hour or so, and we followed it to meet that through-route where it emerges from a gate in the forest.

We’d been accompanied all this time by the loud calls of a cuckoo which was moving through the forest ahead of us. I think I caught sight of it flying above the treetops at one point.

This right of way was well enough made, though there were a few fords and some very boggy sections to get around. Some of the “puddles” along the track had more life in them than your average garden pond!

After one last ford, we reached the track on a looping bend, where a lone right-of-way sign pointed back the way we’d come – to Corrour Station.

For us it was now just a short stroll back past the houses and over the railway and river to reach the car, refreshed and replenished after a good spring day in the hills.

Route details

Stob Coire Sgriodain and Chno Dearg

Distance 10 miles / 16 km

Terrain Mostly pathless mountain, navigation skills required

Start/finish Fersit, Glen Spean

Map OS Landranger 41; OS Explorer 393

A round of two Munros in the Central Highlands provides expansive views and a time to reflect

Click here to see the route in OS Maps