ACTIVE OUTDOORS: Battling early starts and steep hills on cycle to Culloden Battlefield
Early in the morning and the atmosphere is calm and peaceful at the Clava Cairns, as the 4000-year-old burial chambers sit in a blanket of stillness.
It’s not always like that these days, particularly since the Outlander obsession has given rise to more and more visitors wanting to see these inspiring originals.
I hopped off the bike and went through the little metal gate at the far end from the car park, making my way to the east cairn’s entrance.
It had been a bit of a battle to get out of bed and set off this morning, but this rare moment of peace was just reward. There were one or two uphill struggles on the way, too – but isn’t that always the case when it comes to exercise?
I had a nice easy introduction to my early start, rolling along the cycle path alongside the southern distributor road to Inshes, where it’s a faff to negotiate the various crossings unless you’re confident enough to take to the roundabout.
Crossing behind the petrol station, I continued on the path over the A9 and past the campus, where the national cycle route is signposted left towards Culloden.
I was aiming first for the battlefield, partly because I’d heard about the National Trust for Scotland – which manages the site – encouraging people to visit their attractions in a more sustainable way.
The cycle route out of Inverness passes close to the battlefield, so it makes perfect sense to come here under your own steam.
This route visits the battlefield, where there’s a café to refuel after the slog up the hill at Balloch, before continuing to the cairns and returning on some great roads that feel like you’re a long way out of the city.
First, the cycle route continues after the campus to go through Resaurie, with fine views over the Moray Firth to the Black Isle, and into Smithton. From here it is signposted sharp right after the hotel, meandering behind some houses to reach Culloden Avenue, a beautiful route that leads directly towards Culloden House Hotel.
The official route goes all the way to the entrance gates, but I turned right just before an underpass to follow another cycle path more directly towards Balloch.
There are a few extra junctions to cross on this stretch, with new housing being put in place, then it’s a right turn into the village to reach the shops, where you go right again to start the big climb.
At the very top, where the crossroads are, you can fork right onto a path then cross the main road to pass a gate into the battlefield. There are plenty of bike racks if you want to lock up and take a look around the centre or just wander around the battlefield itself.
Back to the crossroads, I turned right now, going straight over at a second crossroads then down to the River Nairn, which you cross after a sharp right-hand turn, with the viaduct over to your left.
Turn right at the national cycle network signpost to reach the Clava Cairns. Beyond here this narrow road, which passes right between two of the standing stones at the east cairn, bends left to climb high above the valley, going under the railway at a particularly steep bit.
I headed right at the T-junction beyond the farm, now on an easier stretch of road where I could enjoy the views and turn the pedals with ease.
This road eventually drops to another T-junction, where the cycle route is signed left towards Tomatin – but we turn right to start our return to Inverness. After the war memorial, turn left and follow the right-hand lane towards the quarry. This is a wide road with plenty of space, but care is needed when working vehicles are present.
It leads you to a tunnel under the A9 – which is fine for non-motorised users to go through – then out to the Fort Augustus road on the other side. Continue along here to Inverarnie, where you turn right at the shop, another good stopping point on this route if you need supplies.
I cycled over the river and up the hill beyond, then pondered whether to head straight on using the B road, or turn left at the crossroads and head home via Dunlichity and Essich, which had been my original plan.
The minor road to Dunlichity proved too tempting, prolonging the ride just that little bit extra, and I made the most of the time in this peaceful place so close to home.
There’s one more sting in the tail as far as hills go, after you turn right towards Bunachton shortly after Dunlichity House. The road surface is mostly very good up here but the gradient never gets easier!
I always note the forest gate on the right which marks the top of the climb. After that, this wonderful road meanders past Bunachton Mains and across the moor to Essich, before a right turn takes you on the potentially speedy descent and all the way down to the southern distributor road on the edge of the city.
Route details
Culloden Battlefield loop
Distance 28 miles / 45 km
Terrain Cycle paths and minor roads
Start/finish Essich roundabout, Inverness
Map OS Landranger 26 & 27; OS Explorer 416
A road ride out to a historic battlefield and continuing on some fantastic cycling roads around Inverness
