Back above the dinosaur loch on traverse of Gleouraich and Spidean Mialach – two Munros with fine views into the heart of Knoydart
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Keep the faith. As we plodded slowly up the steep stalkers’ path and into the base of the cloud, I had an unfounded optimism that the outlook would improve. Sometimes you need that sense of hope to tell yourself to keep going.
Several people doing the circuit of Gleouraich and Spidean Mialach in the opposite direction to us, starting with Spidean, muttered about the lack of view at the top as they passed us on their way down.
In the case of hill walking, the early bird doesn’t always catch the proverbial worm. We’d given ourselves plenty of time but were in no rush to get going first thing in the morning – there’s still enough daylight left to get a good walk in without those early starts yet.
Many years ago, Peter and I had climbed Gairich, on the opposite side of the loch, after my eldest daughter Clara – a toddler at the time – had seen the map on our wall at home and pointed out the upside-down shape of a dinosaur: Loch Quoich – or more in tune with the original Gaelic, Loch Cuaich, as it is now more widely referred to.
Now, here she was walking up the hills opposite, with the dinosaur’s head below. At 11 years old, climbing two Munros in a day was a big challenge for her, and one she managed with determination and grit.
Despite that clagged-in start, she was also rewarded with some spectacular views, not only of the ‘dinosaur loch’ but also of the South Glen Shiel Ridge and, on the long and tiring descent, out west to Sgurr na Ciche and Knoydart with the crepuscular rays of evening sunlight bathing the scene with beauty.
It has felt like far too long since I had been up a ‘proper’ mountain, so I was just glad to be out as we ascended the excellent path that strikes up the hillside from just west of the Allt Coire Peitireach. The cloud was no concern, and it would provide an opportunity to teach a bit of mountain navigation to Clara on the way.
The climb is steep from the off, something of a challenge for a youngster not used to such relentless ascent, but she kept plodding up onto the ridge overlooking the leg of the dinosaur, beyond Druim Seileach before we stopped for a bite to eat.
The stalkers’ path comes to an abrupt end at a rudimentary shelter and from there a well-used trod heads directly upwards to regain the ridge proper again. In the cloud, we suddenly hit the junction of ridges to the west of Gleouraich’s summit and headed right, for the straightforward stroll to the cairn at 1035m.
Gleouraich translates as the ‘roaring peak’ after the sound of the rutting stags at this time of year, but it wasn’t until we were well east of the summit that we heard the almighty roar of the deer echoing through the glens below.
An easy descent then a gradual rise took us over Creag Coire na Fiar Bhealaich before the longer and steeper descent to the bealach itself.
The northern corries of these relatively straightforward Munros look dramatic and would provide an excellent route for a longer expedition, in particular the long ridge rising along the western edge of Coire Leacach Mòr to access Spidean Mialach. One for another time, perhaps.
Our route up from the bealach looked a long way with tired legs, but Clara stuck to the task. The views by now had opened up and the sunshine was lighting up the eastern end of the South Glen Shiel Ridge, while the cloud was drifting on and off over the top of our own ridge, making for a dramatic scene.
Looking to the south, we could see Loch Fearna, which we would bypass on the way down, and the head of the dinosaur with Gairich rising above, its top still clipped by cloud.
A final effort took us to our second summit of the day, Spidean Mialach at 977m. The evening was approaching now but with the sky clearing as the day went on it was difficult to drag ourselves away from this stunning vantage point.
I was particularly interested to follow the line of the old road between the Cluanie and Tomdoun, now submerged by the dammed Loch Loyne. Sometimes, when the water is especially low, it can be possible to wade the channel and follow the old route to and from Skye – though it looked from up here that it might not be quite low enough today.
We’d planned a bearing off the summit in advance, but the weather had cleared sufficiently now that we could easily follow the well-trodden route roughly west-south-west through Coire Glas to pass Loch Fearna on its northern side.
The plan was to meet the stalkers’ path that leads from the Allt a’ Mhèil back to the road a few hundred metres east of the starting point. It was rough going through Coire Glas, though, and it took longer than we expected.
The benefit of our slow progress was those memorable views west in the evening sunlight, as Gairich, Sgurr Mor and Sgurr na Ciche stood out above Loch Cuaich.
After reaching the rhododendrons, we knew we were nearly back at the road. These ornamental bushes have spread from the gardens of the old lodge that was lost to the belly of the dinosaur when the loch was flooded for a hydro scheme, completed in 1962.
Route details
Gleouraich and Spidean Mialach
Distance 8.5 miles / 14 km
Terrain Stalkers’ paths and mountain ridges, boggy on descent
Start/finish Kinlochhourn road, approx. 1.3km before the bridge, at grid reference NH 029031
Map OS Landranger 33; OS Explorer 414; Harvey British Mountain Map: Knoyart, Kintail and Glen Affric
A long day in the hills reaps rewards above the ‘dinosaur loch’
