A tale of two castles
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The route features in a new cycling guide by Alasdair Cain, a mountain guide living in Kingussie, who is also a devotee of road cycling.
I’ll be reviewing his book, Scottish Cycle Routes, by Mica publishing, in more detail in our autumn Active Outdoors magazine.
But as a taster I thought I’d start with this 43-miler taking in some of the quiet countryside south and east of Nairn – much of it unfamiliar to me before doing the ride.
It starts and ends at the Maggot car park at Nairn harbour, where I saddled up and rode back towards the A96. A path cuts off to the left beside the golf course into Lochloy Road, allowing you to avoid a short section of the main road.
It’s straight on now, through Kingsteps and out towards Kintessack, following National Cycle Route 1. At a junction just after Bankhead, turn right and carry on past the first of our fortresses, Brodie Castle, its pink facade glimpsed through trees on the left. Set in glorious parkland, it’s renowned for its elegant interiors and world-famous art collection.
Swing left just before a level crossing to another junction where the main entrance to the castle has a cycle-friendly notice. Turn right here, abandoning NCR 1, and cross a bridge over a burn and the railway line to reach the A96.
Keep your eyes peeled and leave a safe gap to cross this very busy road and take the minor road on the left signed to Conicavel. It passes Tearie Farm to another junction opposite the entrance to the Moray Estates offices.
Turn right, and after about a kilometre left, heading for Conicavel. There’s actually another castle, Darnaway, hidden away among the trees. Go through the little village of Conicavel and climb up on a lovely quiet road into Darnaway Forest.
The road eventually drops sharply, with a speedy descent to a junction and a left turn over Daltulich Bridge, crossing the River Findhorn.
Get into an easy gear ready for the short, steep climb on the other side of the bridge. The road levels then rises again to meet the B9007 at Relugas. Turn right and stay with this road for the next nine kilometres or so, crossing the A939 along the way at Ferness.
Look out for a sign to Dulsie Bridge on the right and take the minor road down to the bridge. There’s a picnic area on the left just before it, and a it’s worth taking the footpath round to get a better look at the graceful arch over the precipitous gorge carrying the Findhorn.
Ride on to a junction and take a left, following the route of the Findhorn to secluded Drynachan Lodge, where shooting and fishing parties pay more than £5,000 a week for the privilege of staying in this remote and beautuful location. A right-hand hairpin takes you up out of the Drynachan valley. The road bends sharp left again then straightens and the gradient eases. It then crosses open moorland and I upped my average speed stats to fly along towards Cawdor.
Keep straight on to Little Urchany and turn left to pass the entrance to fortress number two – 15th-century Cawdor Castle with its links to Shakespeare’s Macbeth – to reach the B9090. After two and a half kilometres this road turns sharp left towards Nairn. Straight on the road becomes the B9101 to Auldearn. Continue on this for about a kilometre to a minor road on the left. You’re on NCR 1 again now which reaches the A939 into Nairn.
Instead of carrying on under the railway bridge to the A96 I followed the safer NCR route which leads back to the Maggot car park.
