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A sea kayaker's view of the Moray Firth


By John Davidson

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When I first moved to Inverness I decided I was going to learn how to sea kayak. Three and a half years later, I finally got round to it!

This evening paddle under the Kessock Bridge was well worth the wait – despite me getting a little soggy on our outing – and I’m already planning to have another go.

I have had some experience in kayaks and canoes before, having paddled a little when I was younger and dabbled occasionally as an adult. But sea kayaking really appealed to me because of the unique way it offers of exploring the wonderful coastline around Scotland.

We met our instructor for the evening, Donald Macpherson – an Inverness man with a genuine passion for all things to do with paddling – under the Kessock Bridge beside the RNLI base at North Kessock.

It was a fine evening, dry and bright with only a little breeze – we couldn’t have hoped for better when we put the date in our diaries.

Starting out on dry land, Donald went through a few basics with us: how not to tip upside-down being the most important one as far as we were concerned, and how to get out if you do end up head down in the salty stuff.

On the water, we practised a few different strokes, learning different ways to turn the boats and also how to keep them in a straight line!

Once we were comfortable at the controls, we turned and headed up the coast towards Kilmuir.

The view from the cockpit was fantastic; lying low on the surface of the water the sea stretches out for miles and we could just about make out the narrow strips of land at Fort George and Chanonry Point.

Nearer at hand, the Kessock Bridge towered above us into the blue sky, a phenomenal sight from this unusual angle.

We kept near the shore in the more sheltered waters as we moved up the coast, trying out the different strokes Donald had showed us and admiring the beautiful coastline just minutes from the centre of Inverness.

We looked out for wildlife, spotting a heron and swans - but unfortunately no dolphins or otters on this trip. Maybe next time.

As the tide was coming in, we were able to paddle behind a few rocks at the shore, being careful not to get grounded in the shallow parts. I put my new turning skills into practise at one point so I could loop round and have a second go.

This was great fun and such a nice way to spend an evening. I was surprised how relaxing it felt to be paddling the sea kayak – not that it wasn’t hard work, but in the shelter of the coast it felt quite natural.

Having a go at the straight and fast paddle, we then headed direct for the village of Kilmuir, continuing past the houses to the slip at the far end.

So far I’d managed to be pretty well in control of my boat but, as we stopped on the shore, that’s when the problems started. I put the bow onto the beach and undid my splash deck. As I shifted my weight out of the boat, it tipped and dumped me into the shallow water.

What a shock! There’s no way of preparing yourself for that initial dip into the cold sea. I was sat in the water now, soaked to my waist and with one arm drenched as I pushed myself back up.

I’d timed it well, though – up on the shore we enjoyed a nice warm coffee while watching the light fade over the Kessock Bridge.

I’ve admired this view after cycling down to this lovely village but this was a whole new experience. It’s a spectacular view and it was great to get back in the boat for the return journey.

On our way back to North Kessock, Donald wanted us to experience something a little less tame than we had so far. He directed us out towards the centre of the bridge, between the two main stanchions.

Out here in the navigation channel, you could get just a feel for how different sea kayaking is out in the open water, and this was on a calm night. We crossed a tidal stream, powering through it before turning right and crossing below the bridge just right of the main stanchion on the North Kessock side.

The trip was nearly over and we enjoyed a final push to go back under the bridge and onto the beach near the RNLI building.

This time I even managed to get out without getting soaked! My legs felt like jelly but I was happy – I had finally completed my first journey by sea kayak. I hope it is the first of many.

Based in Inverness, Explore Highland provides a range of guided paddling trips and instructional courses, including canoeing, kayaking and sea kayaking.

Local areas explored include the Moray Firth, Loch Ness, Loch Dochfour and the River Ness.

A three-hour evening paddle like the one we enjoyed costs £35 per person.

Longer guided paddles including overnight wild camping are also offered, as well as beginners and graded instructional courses.

See www.explorehighland.com for more information about training courses and journeys or call Donald Macpherson on 0780 807 1810 for bespoke exploring.


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