ACTIVE OUTDOORS: Riding the roads to the past in moors above Inverness
It may have been short-lived, but this felt like a real burst of spring. A dry bike ride on the open road, wearing short sleeves and embracing what seemed like the start of the new season.
I wasn’t the only one taking advantage of the clement conditions – the quiet roads to the south of Inverness seemed to be dominated by people cycling, with only a handful of cars. Bliss!
I set off in the cool morning air, heading straight for the hill that leads up to Essich from the city’s southern distributor road. It had been a while since my road bike had been out of the garage – I don’t like to punish it with the salt and grit over winter – so I was pleased to be getting back in the saddle, especially with the Etape Loch Ness on the horizon later in April.
There’s a steep pull up to Essich on a single-track road, and I was soon into my rhythm. After commuting on the mountain bike with its chunky tires all winter, the slick road tires and lighter bike made it seem easy going, even on the uphills.
The road levels off slightly around the farm at Essich. I turned left on the road signed to Bunachton and Dunlichity from here, where another climb takes you past the substation and onto the moors.
On the hill just above here is a Neolithic chambered cairn – or what appears to be three interlinked cairns. The North of Scotland Archaeological Society has done some work clearing gorse here recently to safeguard this scheduled monument, which is the longest Neolithic cairn in the north of Scotland.
Today wasn’t the day for a detour across the fields to take a closer look, but I must do that one day soon.
My ride continued below the power lines and past felled forestry to Bunachton, with great views to the Monadhliath hills, before the fun and fast descent on a twisting, narrow road below Creag a Chlachain. This leads to the junction at Dunlichity, where I turned right to briefly visit the old church.
The story of the soldiers sharpening their swords on the stones of the kirk wall here on their way to battle at Culloden always fascinates me, whether there is much truth in it or not. The physical connection to that history is something to behold, and the old graveyard here makes for a fascinating wander if you have time.
I hadn’t decided which way to go from here, but returning to the bike, I decided the longer route was the right option for such a beautiful day, so I took the quiet road to Brin – which fortunately had just reopened after being closed for over a week, presumably for resurfacing judging by the smooth ride for the next couple of miles.
You’re more likely to come across cattle on the carriageway than cars along here, and there’s something about this twisting single-track road… It seems to be part of the landscape, a route that works with the contours, spinning around huge outcrops as it rises over the shoulder of Creag Bhuidhe then floats down the other side.
I passed Brin Mains, waving to a farm worker in his tractor, then crossed the infant River Nairn to reach a T-junction. A right turn here takes you along the main road, such as it is, but I only stayed on it for about two-and-a-half kilometres before taking a right turn towards Loch Ruthven.
This peaceful corner is an RSPB reserve and one of the only places in the UK where Slavonian grebes breed, and the charity says that they are looking their best from April. There is a viewing hide just a short walk from the small car park, from where you can also take the walk up Stac Gorm to the trig point.
Slovonian grebes are a protected species, and the RSPB asks that you stay at least 20m away from sedgebeds on the reserve to reduce the risk of disturbing them during this important time of year.
Continuing up the hill, I met a couple of cyclists who had also paused to take in the special view over the loch to Stac Gorm, then continued west through this wonderfully quiet landscape, past the cliffs of Creag nan Clag and through woodland to reach Loch Duntelchaig.
A quick climb to the junction, then a right turn leads back towards Inverness. There’s a choice ahead – continue straight on to Dores or turn right on the Essich road. I opted for the latter, pedalling to the crossroads before Loch Ashie then going left down the Macbain hill, a fun-filled descent with switchbacks and tight turns galore.
At the end of a long straight, you cross a bridge before a 90-degree left turn. Taking the road off to the right here, now on the Caledonia Way cycle route into Inverness, I enjoyed a flatter pedal back to Scaniport then along the cycle path beside the road.
When you reach the Torbreck road, follow it to the right to merge onto the Essich road a few hundred yards from the roundabout on the distributor road, back at the start of the ride.
Route details
Loch Ruthven and Duntelchaig
Distance 25 miles / 40km
Terrain Minor roads, hilly
Start/finish Essich roundabout, Inverness
Map OS Landranger 26
A road ride following quiet routes to the south of Inverness and visiting an RSPB reserve in the moors above the city
