Lucky to be in Luxembourg

Luxembourg always wanted to be neutral but travel writer RON SMITH finds his stance completely one-sided in regards to its attributes as a fascinating destination . . . .

EVERYONE knows Luxembourg – but knows nothing about it. It keeps a low

profile, but is doing incredibly well for a small country with just under half a million inhabitants, of whom 40% are foreigners. They have always wanted to be neutral, but being invaded by neighbours gave rise to two characteristics. They started the EU, and their country is peppered by castles, towers, and in the capital city, enormous fortifications.

Luxembourg had a customs and currency union with Belgium before World War II, and after the war founded the European Coal and Steel Community in 1952, which developed into the EU of today. There are several EU institutions in Luxembourg City, but the ones you never hear about – the translation service, archives, computing centre, the secretariat, and the Court of Justice. However, these institutions employ 10,000 people in the capital. The EU member staffs have their own national schools and shops, and are paid tax free.

All this helps to generate traffic for the international airport (only 5 kms from the city centre, so jets fly over constantly) and add to the wealth of the country. The highest standard of living in the EU is demonstrated by many aspects of their education; for instance, every primary school has its own swimming pool.

There are three languages in the country, French, German and Luxembourgisch. I found my French usually evoked a response in English, which is as widespread as their native languages.

The prosperity also stems from industry, with banking, tyres, glass and steel industries all thriving and drawing in workers from the surrounding countries. Each day, around 120,000 commuters enter Luxembourg City from France, Belgium and Germany. Trains from all these countries, many owned by CFL, Luxembourg’s own railway, make the central station very colourful and interesting.

Being at this crossroads of several nations means that Luxembourg has always struggled to be independent. In the 19th century lands had to be conceded to Belgium, Germany and France; in fact, more was given away than the current size of the country. This resulted in the focus on defence and fortifications.

Luxembourg city is on a high rocky tear-drop where the rivers Petrusse and Alzette meet, and the fortifications, deep winding valleys with gardens, soaring bridges, all give a wonderful character to the city that cannot be found anywhere else. The character of the Luxembourgoise is straightforward and democratic. They are proud of their royal family. The palace is in the centre of the city, in a street with just one young soldier self-consciously marching up and down on a track on the pavement, for the tourists. When evening comes, he goes home. There are only 60 politicians, which is a part-time job, and almost no civil service; they just get on with it.

Luxembourg City has a population of 85,000, with another 165,000 living round about. The 120,000 commuters ensure that there are a great many eating places and shops in the pedestrian zone. These shops range from all the international stores to local ones selling hats, or sewing thread, or shoe repairs. Prices are not dear, even with the pound being so low against the Euro. The city is clean and safe. Pragmatically, they have cleaners constantly going round picking up litter (usually dropped by tourists) and there are many visible security people on patrol.

The city is full of squares, parks, and winding streets leading down through the old gates, around sharp corners to suddenly reveal a museum, castle, battlement, statue – always something to discover. The magnificent cathedral was doubled in size between the wars – it is a very Christian country.

To get around, there is the usual double-decker tourist bus, a train pulled by a disguised tractor, or a free bicycle. Bicycle stands are dotted around all over the city. You enter your credit card details in the little terminal, and off you go. The first half an hour is free, and you can deposit your bike at any of the stands in the city. The deep valley of the Petrusse can be cycled, with a lift to bring you back up again afterwards.

The public transport of the country is incredibly dense and efficient. This is one of the few countries where the politicians say that they want to get people out of their cars – and actually provide a superb system to tempt you. There are only 2 tickets – one hour (Euro 1.50 ) or 1 day (4 euro) for any bus or train. The Luxembourg card is well worth getting. (www.luxembourgcard.lu) It costs 10 E for 1 day, 17E 2 days, 24E three days (with family cards 20, 34, or 48 euros respectively).

This gives you free transport anywhere in the country, and free entry to 56 attractions, with reduced prices in countless others, plus a free walking tour of Luxembourg city; well worth it. I used the card to see some more of the country.

The north is beautiful, wooded valleys with fairytale castles perched everywhere, and small towns clean, bustling and charming. For example, at Ettelbruck I wandered through the pedestrian shopping area, to a square with a supermarket on one side. Being hungry I went to the nearest "Brasserie". The French influence pervades, so there is always a "Le Menu" cheap dish of the day type option. At "Il Passaggio" this was soup and pork, as much as I could eat, all for Euro 8.50. The brasserie is popular, locals coming and going, and always wishing me "bon appetite" as they passed. You felt welcome and part of the scene. The smoking laws in Luxembourg are complicated. People smoked, but not between certain hours nor at meal times – hopefully, they will ban it totally eventually.

The south of the country is the land of the red rocks, where iron deposits started the steel industry – this area is not so attractive. Another excursion was to Wasserbillig, a town inundated with German registered cars. The river Moselle (which valley gives the grapes for the excellent Luxembourg wines) is met by the river Sauer, and the bridge can be simply walked over to be in Germany. There is also a car ferry across the Moselle. The swans, ducks and geese on the river all kept to the Luxembourg half of the stream – very odd.

It is not possible in this article to cram in all the incredible quantity and variety of attractions in this small, friendly, welcoming country, where they are just busy getting on with life. It really does have everything, and you could easily spend a week or two here. The low population density means that outside the capital, the country is peaceful and lush, but so well organised with camp sites, hotels, good transport and so many, many different museums, abbeys, castles, events and so on that you will never be bored, at any time of the year. There is an excellent tourist board, with many details at www.visitluxembourg.lu

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