Eat My Words: we tried Newhall Mains’ new food offering for fine dining on the Black Isle
If there is one thing to be said about the Highlands is that pretty often going off the beaten track can lead you to stumble onto some hidden delights.
Whether it’s a breathtaking view or mouthwatering flavours, there is much to be discovered, scattered and dotted across the vastness of the region.
Emerging from the green canvas of fields and crops of the Black Isle, Newhall Mains is one of such unexpected troves.
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Nestled among the farms at Balblair, this five-star hotel is a converted farm “mains” building converted into modern and lush cottages and rooms.
In a bid to revolutionise its food offering, the venue has welcomed chef Alex Henderson - whose curriculum includes working at a Michelin-starred restaurant in Newcastle and as head chef at The Torridon - earlier in summer.
We were invited to try out the new food offering so, on a foggy night of September, we (myself and my partner, making it a treat trip for our anniversary dinner) cruised with anticipation through the countryside to reach our destination.
Location - a trip back and forth in time
The stone buildings stand out from the green background of farms, surrounded by a good portion of land - part of which, we will learn later, is also used as airfield.
We are welcomed by the intoxicating aroma of sizzling embers, coming from two firepits burning in the inner courtyard, which features what I think is the first real-life croquet court I have ever seen. The hope is not to cross an angry Queen of Hearts - at least not before dinner.
It’s a journey back and forth and time here: the exteriors are that of an uplifted, traditional farmhouse - once you step in, you go through a restaurant that recalls a good, upmarket osteria, reminiscent of restaurants from the southern side of Europe (and, an element my very Italian father would appreciate, they use tablecloths!).
The lounge is again something different, a mix of styles one could find in a modern art gallery. The well-stocked bar takes you back to a Bond movie, a space for charming spies to sit and have fancy cocktails in before setting off on a helicopter chase. Even the bathrooms, upstairs, are funky and wonderfully eclectic.
Certainly this different atmosphere to your usual Scottish country house, the usual mix of wood, tartan and leather long forgotten, the spaces seamlessly interconnected as if being in a shot of a one-take movie.
The soundtrack for the night is a playlist of Italian classics, and not the ones you’d imagine to find abroad, and for me, that is yet another trip back in time and space.
Cocktail o’ Clock
The cocktail list is an elegant mix of classics and more creative concoctions. We start with a Rhubarb Rose, which is a wonderfully decadent with subtle notes of rose and sweetness, and a fiery yet delicious Mezcalita (mezcal, Cointreau, lime juice). A good selection of whiskies from around Scotland is also available, and the staff kindly offers to make a mocktail for the driver on the night (spoiler alert, that’s not me).
First things first - a feast of starters
To keep the Italian atmosphere going, we are offered a bottle of Italian red: a pleasant Merlot from Ronco dei Tassi in the Venezia Giulia region, a light, fresh and slightly dry wine which pairs well with the mix of meat and fish we have picked. The menu reminds me that we are indeed in Scotland, and a selection of classics with a gourmet twist is available.
The starters were the true stars of the show for me, with a remarkable combination of flavours and consistencies in each plate.
What we are offered first is homemade sourdough, which has been woodfired (the open woodfire is used as much as possible in the kitchen, and it does deliver) and accompanied by an incredible homemade kefir butter, which is a flavour profile I have never encountered but which, I hope, I will be able to find again in my journeys. You will notice the lack of pictures of this and there is a very good reason! But I digress.
Do you recall the scene in which Mr Bean is offered a steak tartare at a posh restaurant? I believe that Chef Henderson’s own version could very much convert Rowan Atkinson’s character in a blink of an eye.
Tartare is one of those dishes that really calls for high-quality meat - and skill in preparing it. The beef tartare, pickled onion and parsley emulsion was arguably one of the best I have ever tried: the parsley and onion made an assist to the incredibly tender and flavourful meat, which was genuinely a joy to eat.
The Hebridean scallops were mighty and meaty, in the delightful way that only freshly caught ones can be, with the sweetness and slight acidity of the apple and the refreshing fennel cutting through this song of the sea.
Finally, we try the chicken liver pathè on toasted brioche: again, the force is strong in the bread-maker here, and although I am not normally a pathe fan, this is wonderfully lean and elegant, the creamy bitterness of the liver playing a tennis game on your tastebuds with the gentle sweetness of the brioche, on a court of mellow butter.
Newhall’s Mains
After performing a small standing ovation for the starters, we move to the main courses. Having realised that I have been living around here for more than five years and never tried a taste of the local grouse (if we exclude the famous one of whisky), mine is an easy choice to make. The game is gamey, well cooked, with its intense and wild flavours, the meat from the energetic bird is covered in a layer of crumbs giving a lovely crunchiness. It is not the easiest meat I have had to eat, but I am very glad I tried it here first.
The roasted pollock (which I believed was game too but no, if anyone else is asking, is a fish) was meaty and well paired with an elegant saffron cream sauce - if somewhat oversalted, which covered a bit the more delicate flavours on the plate.
The hassleback potatoes and woodfired heritage carrots with cumin as a side work well in absorbing some of the strong flavours and are both incredibly tender and pretty spot on.
Delicious in fundo
Although we are pretty happy and rather full after the first two courses, as science wants it, desserts occupy a different stomach. It is rare for me to order something that does not include chocolate so the dark chocolate delice literally hits the sweet spot for me.
And it truly is delicious - layers of mousse and cream, a mix between a cloud and a brownie, with a salty note on top, it is lush but also very elegant and it does help cut through the richness of the earlier courses.
The final round-up
If someone asked me for a recommendation for a place where to celebrate a special occasion, this would be now one of the first places I would think of.
This is a restaurant that gives you the space and time to appreciate every mouthful, a quet place where time and the outside world can stop for a few hours.
We were welcomed by the warm, attentive and lovely staff who were superb at taking us through the whole meal without being pressing (and giving the same attention to each table).
The quality of the food and the skills behind the kitchen counter are remarkable - your tastebuds will thank you for trying it out.
A seasonal menu means what comes through as wonderfully fresh produce (I suppose that being surrounded by cattle and farms helps in this.)
For what was a great show of cooking, I reckon the prices would go at around £70/£80 per person on average for three courses, which might make more of a special treat for most people, but one experience I’d recommend to try if you can.
The owners are aiming for Newhall Mains to become a “foodie destination”, and I can easily see it picking up interest among visitors and locals alike.
