What is this life if, full of care, we have no time to stand and stare
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Minutes later a deer, surprised by our presence, scurried off into the undergrowth.
These close encounters were an unpredicted bonus during a therapeutic walk along a former railway near Muir of Ord and Spital Wood.
Opened in 1894, the once-busy Black Isle branch line ran 13 miles between Muir of Ord and Fortrose, carrying passengers as well as freight, such as cattle, agricultural products, including potatoes and barley, and fish.
Long since closed, sections of the line now form part a well-signposted network of paths and tracks, between fields and through forests – for walkers, cyclists and horse-riders.
And yet it was only enforced circumstances, or perhaps serendipity, which led husband Jim and I to explore it for the first time this spring, despite it being just a few minutes’ drive away from home.
Recovering after undergoing major surgery for bowel cancer a few weeks previously, Jim was becomingly increasingly desperate to get out for a proper walk and a change of scenery.
A slow shuffle from home to the nearby shops had progressed to several slow ambles by the River Beauly. But frustration was setting in, along with withdrawal symptoms from being unable to take part in this year’s Highland Cross.
Meanwhile, one evening at the end of a particularly manic day, I was also in need of a reviving walk.
On many occasions, we had driven past signposts for a walk bisected by the B9169 near Muir of Ord but had never investigated further.
Like many we were guilty of neglecting what was on our doorstep, so now seemed as good a time as any to remedy the situation. Parking carefully in a small layby so as not to obstruct the gate to a field, we had a choice of two directions. Muir of Ord lay one way along the disused railway. Instead we opted to follow the signpost towards Spital Wood.
We managed a two-hour slow amble and although we didn’t cover a great distance we went far further than expected, spurred on by the excitement of a previously undiscovered route.
We have returned on several occasions, building up the distance and exploring different routes.
Different circumstances call for different walks – and different walks evoke different moods. The relentless bog-hopping and back-breaking slog up Beinn a Bha’ach Ard, for example, is guaranteed to drive me into a disagreeable mood until that moment of delirious achievement on reaching the summit of this Corbett.
And where better to have Sunday morning breakfast than following a brisk climb to Loch nam Bonnach above Beauly, carrying a flask of coffee and freshly-made croissants?
Meanwhile, those walks during the anxious wait for the diagnosis of Jim’s cancer were tinged with tense unspoken undertones, despite efforts to create a sense of bravado and humour.
Appealing to the thrifty Yorkshirewoman in me, he persevered with his one-to-one tutorials to ensure I could fully operate our expensive camera – just in case it was bad news!
Fortunately the prognosis was good and the surgery successful. But any longer walks have been put on hold temporarily as Jim regains his pre-op fitness and strength.
But our newly-discovered ambles along the old railway have provided walks of a different kind – the chance to rediscover the intensity of nature.
I am reminded of a favourite childhood poem by Welsh poet William Henry Davies which begins:
"What is this life if, full of care,
We have no time to stand and stare.
No time to stand beneath the boughs
And stare as long as sheep or cows."
With such thoughts we have taken time to watch a bee gathering nectar from a foxglove, indulged half-an-hour watching a tractor at work in the fields or enjoyed the kaleidoscope of hedgerow flowers.
From red kites to tree creepers and yellowhammers, the birdlife also provides a fascintating spectacle.
And undoubtedly we will be back again on walks of a more challenging nature – maybe even the slog up Beinn a Bha’ach Ard.
Walk – Muir of Ord circuit
The network of well signposted routes offers a choice of options.
This 8km walk starts and ends in Muir of Ord. If driving to the village it’s best to park in the public car park in Seaforth Road and walk the short distance up Balvaird Road to Hawthorn Road, where the signpost indicates 3km to Spital Wood.
Follow the single-track country lane until another signpost on the right points the way to Spital Wood along the old railway track until it reaches the B9169.
Cross over the road and follow the signpost along the single-track lane next to the former railway embankment. After the lane curves to the right, it becomes a track – again the former railway line.
Just before a stone arched bridge, take the left-hand track signposted Spital Wood North. It passes fields on the left-hand side and woods on the right, climbing gently.
As the track swings into a private house on the right, the route continues straight ahead along a clearly-defined path to reach a signposted T-junction.
Pause for a while to enjoy the views down to the Beauly Firth or across to Beinn a Bha’ach Ard – although I find the turbines of the Fairburn wind farm an intrusion.
Turn right for Spital Wood North and follow the path into the woods, where you may spot a quirkily-placed blackened kettle and pan in a tree on the right-hand side. An alternative Clootie tree perhaps?
At the next signposted T-junction turn right, following the signs for Spital Wood and Old Railway. A low canopy of fern sits on a mossy bed beneath a mosaic of lichen-dripping spruce and native deciduous trees such as silver birch. A truly tranquil spot.
On reaching the railway bridge it is simply a case of retracing your steps to Muir of Ord.
Map OS Explorer 4341, Glen Urquhart and Strathglass
