Nestled on a small peninsula with its own private bay, overlooking Loch Awe in Argyll, the Taychreggan Hotel — privately run by the owners of Culloden House — is located at the end of six miles of single-track road and even further away from the hustle and bustle of the tourist trap that is Oban.

The 18-bedroom hotel overlooks the loch, which is particularly popular with anglers, and the views are simply breathtaking. There is nothing more relaxing than sitting in your bathroom looking out over a loch.

Of course, when we visited the Taychreggan, signposted from the A85 at Taynuilt, it was a perfect weekend, glorious sunshine and not a breath of wind in the air, but the hotel would still be spectacular in the pouring rain, such is its location.

For hundreds of years, Scottish drovers found shelter and food at the Taychreggan, which used to be an inn. It was at Taychreggan, Loch Awe's narrowest crossing point, the cattle would swim across.

And signs of this still exist. The bar and restaurant are white-stone-walled, with wooden beams. A large lounge with comfy coaches in rustic colours provides a perfect spot to relax and enjoy a large glass of red wine, while log fires, although not lit when we visited, promised an atmosphere one comes to expect from a high quality Scottish hotel. A full-size antique snooker table also sits in the corner. At the entrance, wellies of varying sizes line the corridor and as manager Fiona Sutherland explained they are free for guests to use. "Nobody cares about fashion here," she says.

Now take the old with the modern improvements which have been made in recent years.

A courtyard in the centre of the hotel was replaced with a modern orangery in 2000, which has the feel of a bright, airy and spacious conservatory. It seems a shame to have lost an open courtyard, but with Scottish weather it makes sense.

Newly refurbished bedrooms in the east wing offer modern luxury with a traditional feel. Ageing bathrooms have been replaced with heated floors, free-standing baths fit for two, separate sinks and large showers, while the wooden furniture in the bedroom is dark in appearance and much more traditional-looking, with beautiful bed-spreads — some tartan — adorning the bed.

We were given a room in the west wing named after Scottish writer James Boswell. He stayed there, along with close friend Dr Samuel Johnson, who also has a room named after him, during their historic journeys to the Hebrides.

Overlooking the loch, it had the elegance of the newly refurbished rooms, and a bed to die for, but its bathroom was still to be replaced. Nevertheless, there were no complaints — it was clean and welcoming.

The small decanter of whisky — don't ask me what type — was a perfect touch.

At night, dinner is served in the restaurant, which gained two much-coveted AA rosettes for its food.

Taychreggan Hotel - tranquility in a perfect setting.

A five-course menu with choice of two starters, main meals and deserts, was perfectly enjoyable and although no complaints about the quality, lacked the "wow" factor a £44 per head price demands. When we dined, starters included breast of duck with sweet and sour peppers, duck rillette and baby figs, or locally smoked haddock with saute potatoes, young leeks and pommery mustard sauce. Main meal choices included loin of lamb topped with rosemary-scented mousse, with fondant potato ratatouille, or roast monkfish tails on a black olive and corinader cous-cous, with seared Loch Linnhe scallops.

A traditional Scottish breakfast awaits guests, with fresh fruit, cereals and yoghurt to begin, followed by fresh bread, warm croissants, homemade preserves and a choice of full cooked breakfast, smoked haddock kedgeree and scrambled egg and smoked salmon to name but a few. We were both impressed with the quality, as well as the service of its small band of staff, headed by manager Fiona Sutherland.

Taychreggan is owned by San Fransisco-based owners Susan and Ed Cunningman, and although they visit infrequently, signs of investment are obvious, with last year's total running in excess of £1 million. They own just two hotels in Scotland — the other being Culloden House, with which it shares some similarities. The couple own three other hotels in America.

Leaving the tranquillity of the hotel behind, there is plenty to do nearby, whether it is fishing on Loch Awe, clay pigeon shooting, archery, hawk handling, or even rabbit stalking, which can all be booked through the hotel, although some activities need to be booked in advance. Oban is just 20 miles away.

There is also plenty opportunity for walking, whether it be on one of the hills which surround Loch Awe or nearby Dalavich forest — perfect for a gentle stroll. We enjoyed the two-mile Dalavich Oakwood Trail and then the Avich Falls walk. At just a little under two miles, it links a series of waterfalls under a forest canvas of high trees.

Looking back on our weekend, there is little to fault Taychreggan, only that its isolation demands a menu price to suit guests staying more than one night.

To avoid disappointment, splash out on a master or junior suite. Although standard rooms were perfectly acceptable, they are much smaller and lack the views.

Brace yourself for a three-hour journey along the A82 from Inverness, but one that will most definitely be rewarded with spectacular scenery at the end.

Taychreggan, Kilchrenan, Taynuilt, Argyll, PA35 1HQ

• Master suite, bed and breakfast, prices range from £94.50 to £131 per person per night, depending on the time of year. Junior suite, prices range from £78.50 to £115. Superior rooms, prices range from £68 to £85.50. Standard rooms range from £53.50 to £66.50.
• Taychreggan specialises in weddings, with various prices.
• Dinner is a five-course table d'hote menu, £44 per head. Bottle of wine from £14.95.
• 01866 833 211/366 www.taycregganhotel.co.uk

h.paterson@inverness-courier.co.uk

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