Norman MacDonald began his career by washing dishes. Now he is in the running for a top food award. Calum Macleod learned how a bicycle was a vital part of his success
AS a place well used to holding celebrations, Norman MacDonald’s Castle Street restaurant Cafe 1 could be excused a celebration of its own.
Norman is the only Highland nominee in the food and drink category of this year’s Glenfiddich Spirit of Scotland Awards, and as such is not just representing his own business and his home city, but the region.
"To get shortlisted is absolutely fantastic," he said.
"It’s great for the staff here, great for our customers and great for our suppliers, but it’s also nice to be a busy restaurant. That’s recognition in itself."
Cafe 1 has had its share of celebrity guests over the years with first minister Alex Salmond, Prince Andrew and golfer Lee Westwood among its more recognisable diners, but celebrity endorsement is not Norman’s main measure of success.
"Celebrities are nice, but this is what we are about," Norman said, gesturing to his nearest customers.
"Three generations at one table. If you can take your parents and your children to the same place, that to me is as big a commendation as anything. And if you can get four generations, even better. That’s the glory of food, it brings people together."
Proud of his Highland roots, Norman’s father came from Harris and like many islanders made his career in the Merchant Navy, while his mother is from neighbouring Lewis. There is a strong entrepreneurial strand in the DNA of the man who started his own business at the age of 24.
"My grandfather went to Patagonia to herd sheep, made his money, then went home to Harris to build his house," Norman said.
"My great-grandfather had two trawlers and exported herring to Moscow. Islanders were quite adventurous in what they did to make a living."
Norman himself did not have to journey quite so far. At 16 he set off on his bike to look for a job. His first stop was the nearby Lochardil Hotel, but with no luck there or at Toby at The Islands, he eventually struck lucky at the Glenmoriston Hotel where he found work as a dishwasher.
From washing dishes Norman moved on to being a waiter and under the encouragement of hotel owner Adrian Pieraccini quickly moved into management, becoming restaurant manager at just 21.
"That was the best thing that could have happened to me," he said.
"I was allowed to run someone else’s business — though under very close supervision — but as they say in football, you should be good enough, not old enough. And I always had the advantage of looking 10 years older than I actually am!"
Just a few years later Norman was ready to start his own business and took over Cafe 1 in 1998 aged 24.
"We have only ever had three head chefs — and the first one only lasted six weeks, so that’s just two head chefs in 12-and-a-half years," he pointed out.
Norman works closely with prize-winning head chef David Coubrough, and takes over in the kitchen himself when required on holidays and days off.
Just as his career began at the Glenmoriston, Norman is also keen to pass on opportunities to today’s generation and tries to make a point of employing local people.
"We start them at a young age and the first reason we have for doing that is that they have the confidence of youth," he explained.
"The other thing is that they are still receptive to education. We are very proud of our young staff. They are like family to us. My wife Karen and I both work in the business and that’s made easier by working with people we like.
"You are giving people memories because they come here to celebrate anniversaries and birthdays. We have 130 dinners booked in the restaurant tonight (Saturday) and if one dish is wrong, that is a disaster. Everyone is under a lot of pressure, whether they are on the floor, making sure everyone’s looked after, or in the kitchen, making sure everything is cooked to people’s preferences. If it is, you get a pat on the back, go home, go to bed and the next day get up and do it all over again."
One thing Cafe 1 prides itself on, along with the skill of its staff, is its use of fresh local produce from the Highlands. This includes the restaurant’s own Holly House meat brand raised on the croft run by Norman’s father-in-law. Beginning with Highland cattle and Hebridean sheep, Tamworth and Gloucester Old Spot pigs have recently been added to the croft’s four footed occupants.
"Our local suppliers are still really important to us, but we want to offer our own range," Norman explained.
Over Norman’s 21 years in the food industry there have been some big changes to the restaurant scene in Inverness and the wider Highlands. Even one of Britain’s best known names in the restaurant trade, Albert Roux, has been making inroads into the area just up the hill from Cafe 1 at the Rocpool Reserve, though Norman is not convinced he is bringing much new to the party.
"I would argue that Highlanders have always been adventurous eaters," he said.
"The good thing for us now is the quality of the opposition. We have a restaurant culture in Inverness now because of the number of restaurants. Cafe 1 is not going to attract people to Inverness. Loch Ness may, the golf may, but what makes it attractive is the whole package. We have great places to eat in, world class golf courses and international events like the Northern Meeting Piping Competition. Inverness as a city has a lot to shout about."
And Norman has no plans to look beyond his home city to realise any further career ambitions. Any expansion of the business would be based around the Castle Street site, perhaps involving developing the Holly House brand for direct sale.
In the meantime, however, Norman has other things on his plate, and not just connected with his business.
Earlier this year Norman and his friend Iain McGillvray cycled the 260 miles of the Outer Hebrides from Vatersay to the Butt of Lewis, raising £37,000 for Highland Hospice.
"That was great fun," he said.
"You’re not thinking about much when you’re cycling into a northerly wind in the Hebrides."
Now he has a more permanent commitment to the hospice after being asked to join its board of trustees.
"That’s a great honour and a great challenge," Norman said.
"We have an aging population in the Highlands. The Highland Hospice covers an area the size of Belgium. It’s the most geographically diverse area in Europe with the most ageing community. That’s a terrific challenge and brings its own rewards."
Such a role reflects Norman’s position as one of Inverness’s best known businessmen, though he is quick to counter that suggestion.
"I don’t know how," he said. "I’m only ever in here!"
However, Norman accepts that there is a public profile which goes with the business of being mine host at a successful restaurant.
He also manages to escape from Cafe 1 to enjoy life outwith work. Sunday is set aside as a family day and Norman is not just to be found cycling on charity fundraising events.
"I play tennis and squash — I get up early in the morning and play before anyone can see me," he laughed.
However, Norman also takes great satisfaction in gentler pleasures, getting up in the morning and wandering over to the delicatessen in Crown to pick up some fresh bread, then heading back home with the newspaper to make breakfast for the family.
"That’s quality of life," he said.
"When things are just done right — and Inverness is a great place to bring up kids."
