Cosmopolitan folk, with food to match

Good food matches the cosmopolitan atmosphere at McNabs.

John MacNabs

Bar & Bistro

Columba Hotel, Ness Walk.

poacher’s terrine £5.25.

supreme £13.75, Thai curry £8.

TIPPING in American eateries is a given, so credit to the women from across the pond who were determined to do the same in an Inverness bar.

The exuberant women were in MacNabs by the River Ness and had finished their meal and a plethora of drinks when one picked up a 20 pence piece.

"Excuse me!" she asked the barman. "What. Is. This? Is this 20 cents!" she squawked in an unmistakable Stateside drawl.

"No ma’am, you’re in Scotland now and that’s 20p!", I was tempted to shout back, but held my tongue.

The merry Americans left a pile of "smash" on the table.

Looking out onto the river and up to Inverness Castle, MacNabs is in an enviable position and part of the adjacent Columba Hotel which provides a steady stream of visitors from all over the globe.

It was a fresh but chilly Friday night when we ventured in. There was a pleasant buzz from excitable patrons, both local and international, who were either pleased to have reached the end of another week or simply delighted to be on holiday.

MacNabs’ interior has managed to marry a modern contemporary style, but not at the expense of being so plush as to discourage people popping in for a few pints.

A melting pot of nationalities were present, with Europeans and Americans coming through from the Columba Hotel.

A sizeable bar in the middle, has comfortable seating on one half and tables and chairs at the other end where food is served.

A TV above the fireplace showed a music channel but the volume was turned down and modern checked upholstery – tartan-esque — was prominent. Modern framed pictures of men in kilts and holding guns adjourned the cream walls.

A mosaic of windows let a load of light in to the bar while customers could look out onto the fast-running river and up to the castle.

Sadly there were no blinds to blot out the architectural disaster next to the castle, the flat-roofed, much derided former Crofters Commission building.

The menu was not overly cluttered with choices and it was relatively straightforward fare.

I ordered the seafood slate

starter and my girlfriend went for the poacher’s terrine, both served on slates, not plates. My companion had one reservation – her teeth shuddered when her fork made contact with the slate.

But my starter looked good and tasted the same.

A rollmop of herring, mackerel and a generous portion of smoked salmon, dill dressing and a roll.

Starters need a bit of variety and this dish had that to perfection.

The poacher’s terrine also ticked all the right boxes, with the a well-spiced chutney accompaniment.

For the main, it was Highland chicken supreme, with haggis and whisky sauce.

At close on £14, it seemed pricey for a chicken dish and still does, but the luxurious whisky sauce ultimately made the dish.

Opposite me a green Thai curry was enjoyed. I had a taste and it was nice enough, but my personal preference is for a spicy curry.

There is much to be said for waiting staff asking if everything is okay five minutes into your meal – so many establishments seem to forget this. Here the staff were friendly and attentive.

MacNabs is well worth a visit for a bite to eat or a just a drink and, yes, I did leave a tip.